Anyone offer advice on engine oil to use? '88 3.5 efi, auto, petrol/LPG.
Can I use any branded oil, what about the Castrol Magnatech stuff - how's that to use?
I did a 'google-search' on these newsgroups seeing as nothing so far with this rangie has been simple! even opinions on oils are mixed, I assumed (wrongly?) that synthetic/semi-synthetic was best.
My RR 3.5 is on about 150k miles. I used Castrol GTx changed every 5k miles upto
100k when I reduced the interval to 3k with an engine flush at the same time. The original cam and tappets valves etc. Still runs well.
Modern engines, like my Nissan, run synthetic with 10k between changes but these engines are are a breed apart from the 3.5 design so I wouldn't recommend the V8 on such an oil. I do remember someone did post an article on suitable oils for differing types of bearing/oil circulation so perhaps they will re-post.
Austin - when do the recommendations for 10W/40 start? That's the handbook recommendation for my 3.9, and what I've always run it on. The engine is in good condition (according the man who knows about these things) at 130K, but I know the older engines were meant to run on 20W50.
Tim Hobbs
'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i
On or around Fri, 15 Aug 2003 09:15:43 +0100, Tim Hobbs enlightened us thusly:
erm... I'll have a look.
Haynes RR: engine oil: Multigrade 20W50 to API SF or SG. no mention in the supplement of other oils
Haynes Disco: SAE 5W30 to 10W40, to ACEA A2:96, API SH or better.
RAVE, classic RR oil temp range °C
5W30 -35 to +35
5W40 & 5W50 -35 to +55
10W30 -20 to +35
10W40 & 10W50 -20 to +55
15W40 & 15W50 -10 to +55
20W40 & 20W50 0 to +55 Oil to one of these standards: RES.22.OL.G-4 / CCMC G-4 / API SG or SH
RAVE disco says the same.
I guess it's down to engine condition too. Although personally, I'd prefer a 50 for hot weather, even so - these engines are not noted for high oil pressure, and thin oil and hot weather ain't going to improve it.
It's always troubled me that good 20W50 seems hard to come by. The stuff you see in motor factors seems to be very cheap and cheerful and described as 'for basic engines' or 'for old shitheaps'. I wouldn't describe my Disco V8 as either really. The 101 is a different story..
The Disco runs on 10W40 and the 101 on 20W50. Oddly, the Discovery oil light goes out instantly, the 101 flickers on at tickover until it is well warmed up. Someone once said that the V8 depends much more on oil volume than pressure, but I have no idea what they based that on.
Tim Hobbs
'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i
On or around Sun, 17 Aug 2003 22:13:49 +0100, Tim Hobbs enlightened us thusly:
well, a good V8 gets up to about 35psi at revs, engine hot. Book value is
30-40 at 2400 rpm, IIRC.
Unipart "green" 20W50 is reasonable quality. ditto Morris's Magnol, which I found in a garage the other day. API SF/CC, IIRC.
I think Duckhams Q may still be 20W50, assuming you can find it. And there's always Silkolene, but that's expensive :-), had some for the bike. Called Racelube, semi-synth 20W50.
FWIW, I don't see why you shouldn't run on 15W50, which is slightly easier to find in decent quality.
I paid about 5.50 a gallon for it at my local Wilcos a fair while ago (special quantity deal) but strangely only one of the three Norwich branches routinely have it on the shelf ...
Ohh, the terrible 'e' word!
15w40 is much more common but I have found it to be a bit thin for a tired engine - it tends to make escape sorties past valve guides and piston rings, sending smoke signals when successful to other similarly minded lubricants ...
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