I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month. They work, but ...
When I reverse, the front brakes go on immediately - even if the wheel is jacked up. I can spin them forward easily, backwards not at all. To reverse the vehicle requires low transfer & lots of welly.
And I can't get the brake drums off any more, even with the brakes fully released on the adjusters.
I've done something silly, any ideas as to what I've done, or not done?
Duracell Bunny uttered summat worrerz funny about:
Is it possible to bolt the cylinders on the wrong way and thus fit the shoe in the wrong way?
Can you get the drum off if you roate the hub forward whist applying your favourite kind of wellie?
Lee D
No, the cylinders only go one way - the 88" has a one leading, one trailing shoe design.
The drum won't come off even when persuaded by my biggest Thor hammer - it gets about 1/3 of the way, then is solid. It went on 'reasonably' easily, ie was a little tight, I put this down to a bit of a wear ridge on the drum.
I've driven it around 200kms towing a heavy trailer on the Pacific Highway a few times, in the hope that a little bit of use & wear would ease things up - it hasn't.
Sounds like a spring may be missing/broken, or the shoes might be fitted in the wrong place. IIRC, one shoe on each side has a gap with no friction material for the first inch or so, not sure if it is the leading or the trailing shoe, but you may have them the wrong way round.
Best guess is that the springs are not in the right place. As to getting the drum off off - If you can get the drum far enough off to see the shoes, try clamping the shoes together. Also watch for the shoes tipping out as you move the drum off - this will jam it. JD
It sounds like a lack of free-play in the master cylinder push rod (or a problem in the inline booster) causing a slight residual pressure in the hydraulics thus not letting the wheel cylinders return fully. Try cracking the bleeder to let any pressure go and then removing the drum with the bleeder still open.
Failing that if you pay the airfare I'll come and sort it out. ;-)
heh I'm not that desperate :) You're married, anyway :O
It's all new hydraulics (except the booster) & the movement of the wheel cylinders was suspect at installation - the pistons did not seem too keen to go all the way in, compared to the old ones.
The shoes & springs can only go on one way on the Series 11A 88", so it's not the springs or shoes on incorrectly. I'll look at your idea of the wheel cylinders next weekend. Thanks for the suggestion :)
hmm, sounds like a dodgy wheel cylinder. Just need to make sure you park where no reversing is req'd :-). Serously though if the cylinder isn't retracting fully and you have a ridged drum, i can't see an easy way out on this. The last time i had this on an old SIIA i had to grind a hole in the drum and crack it in two. Bit harsh but there wasn't another option at the time, we tried for several days to remove the drum without damage but gave up. If you can get the shoes past the ridge then you have a good chance of getting the drum off with some effort and a good persuader. A mini ratchet strap would help if enough of the shoes showing otherwise a large jubilee clamp as used in the air-conditioning & ventilation systems etc would do to clamp the shoes in. Another method is to actually undo the cylinder completely and try to remove the drum/shoes/cylinder as one. Will you have the same prob with the other side?
Wolfie
I was only offering to fix the brakes. :-)
Hence my suggestion about free play at the master cylinder - I've been caught like that (but not on a Landrover).
If you feel like spending a touch more on the airfair there are probably a few of us over here who can work on series brakes too! :)
LOL - I read "aifair" as affair"
In any event, speaking personally I can't imagine there's anything I could teach Karen - about the brakes silly :)
There sould be a threaded hole on the drum (it's a daft thread) that allows you to screw a bolt in to pull the drum off.
Richard
I think thats a bit offensive and you should apologise to the OP.
david
Hi Richard, do you mean the thread on the drum is stupid?..
Ian
You have missed the smiley off........?
Richard
Yep.
Richard
Here it is
;-)
ps
Price for a 1996 P38a ABS brake accumulator (bit on top of ABS pump)? No TC if that makes a difference.
David
Yes, there is - I've used that, I can get it off a little further than the fastening screw it's designed for. Perhaps I should try a longer bolt there, should have thought of that one myself, I've had to do that before now. I think senility is setting in :(
As far as I recall, it's a 5/16 Whit thread. I can knock up a longer one in no time.
Thanks Richard
A snip at £116.32 inc VAT - Wabco make.
Richard
My money would be on something not quite right about the leading/trailing shoe(s), the position of the main brake springs (behind/infront of the shoe web), shoe retainers or a combination as the brakes grab the moment you reverse.
It could be a sticking cylinder but surely the slave rather than master.
If it's the master open the bleed screw at the offending wheel and the brake spring pressure should let a bit of fluid out and the shoes in, release the adjuster and they should go right in.
If it's a sticky slave you've had enough info on how to deal with that. At least you can get some of the shoes visible to attempt squezing them together some how.
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