|| EMB wrote: ||| Duracell Bunny wrote: |||| I'm stumped - I gave my old Series (88") new brakes last month. |||| They work, but ...
Don't know if this is any use, but I had problems with my 2a fitting new wheel cylinders. I could only get the drums back on (and off again) with a lot of force. I then used a G-cramp to push the cylinder pistons back in as far as they would go, put the shoes back on and fitted the drums. After that, no problems. Possibly the cylinders just need a bit of working to get them used to the idea that they are no longer sitting on a parts shelf but are expected to work for their living.
If I recall correctly aren't the piston slots profiled to go one way yet physically you could fit them the wrong way which would mean the shoe wouldn't sit right. The fix would be to rotate the offending piston 180 degrees. Though I dunno if it would be possible to get the shoes in to the drum if it was fitted incorrectly.
I think you meant 3/8" Whit, but I think you should go with EMB and slacken a bleed nipple off on the one you are trying to remove and also check master cylinder free play. Also if you have had the servo (booster) in pieces check adjustments on this, it also needs free play (unless of course it's not a remote one and part of the pedal assembly). Have you got a leading edge on the top of both shoes as the rear shoe becomes a leading shoe going backwards and will grab as there's no spring to pull it off ( I've seen that happen)
Buy a large three leg gear puller to remove the drum, Supercheap or Repco have them for about $25. Apply a wee bit of heat to the drum if it still needs persuading, light tapping with a hgh tech lump of pipe wont hurt. Skim the ridge off the drum in a lathe.
Fixing the problem - check that you have sized the drums and shoes. There are/were some oversize shoes floating around intended for oversize drums. Mismatch them and you end up with the problems you describe. Vice versa problem also occurs when you get standard shoe and oversize drum, they never ever work. PBR were flogging them off about three years ago.
Check that the shoes are held in place with that little doodad which is spring loaded and keeps the shoes sort or parrallel to the backing plate. It passes through from the backing plate and twists and locks through the underside of the shoe.
Check for copious amounts of crud dropping off the drum and backing plate causing the brakes to bind up.
There is a junction block (usually) mounted on the top of the chassis under the master cylinder, sometimes it has the brake light switch in it as well. This has been known to cause me problems with residual pressure as mentioned in another post.
Lastly take the handbrake off before you reverse!!!
BTW - do you have a boat? You've got a Landy, can maintain it, if you've got a boat and a twin sister I could be in love.
On the front, those little round clamps at the bottom of the shoes were removed some 25 years ago by an overzealous friend, I've never been able to replace them. Mind you, I never did go overboard looking as their absence seemed irrelevant. Perhaps they are necessary after all ...
It's only one wheel that's sticking though, both front wheels lack that little thing.
I'll be looking at it again at the end of the week, though I'm planning lots of more fun things for the weekend, like mountain biking & having a dinner party here. No, you're not invited, lads. Sorry :)
I suspect that this may be the problem - they are probably only needed if the linings are a close fit or something like that, although locking on should be the other end of the trailing shoe pushing against the drum, which is why I suggested a spring problem. JD
"When you're younger you can eat what you like, drink what you like, and still climb into your twenty-six-inch-waist trousers and zip them closed, then you reach that age, your muscles give up, wave a little white flag, and without any warning at all you're suddenly a fat bastard.."
Have you managed to sort them out yet Karen? I've now got clean new brakes on my truck and they are fine when i jack it up one wheel at a time and adjust it. When i move it though I can get about 20ft before it almost locks solid and starts groaning!. . Any idea? new return springs needed perhaps? Front ones felt strong as they were buggers to get on but the rear ones dont do a lot. Ive got a loose wheel bearing on one back corner too and im wondering if the wobble is enough to make the shoes catch funnily?
I also had trouble with mine sticking on at the front on the side where i didnt replace the adjusters. The new front pads i got had a longer pin which manages to wedge itself on the washery bit at the bottom of the adjuster right by the backplate. They then wont un-adjust all the way down to remove the drum/turn the brakes off.
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