Troubleshooting a rebuilt A140E Transmission

When you check out the pump did you measure the line pressure from the test port on the left front (?) of the case? I suppose you don't even get the bump when moving from N to either D or R.

Is the manual shifting any different? Manual shifts add the help of some brake bands. Were the o-rings in the solenods and pistons replaced? How's the condition of the strainer. I assume it's may be all plugged up when the first clutch failed. Fram has an excellent kit with rubber-cork gasket.

ShadeTree via CarKB.com wrote:

BTW, which rebuild kit did you buy. And do you really need to use specialized tools, like the main shaft holder?

Also, the Aisin series of transmssions are know for sluggish line pressure problems. This contributed to the soft shifts that many people mistaken for a feature. A lot of wear and tear happens to the clutch pack and brake bands the parts get coated good with black powder. Frequent changing of the strainer (15K miles) helps cut down. Fram ATF is a good kit.

ShadeTree via CarKB.com wrote:

The computer shows no trouble codes which is good I guess. The transmission which should read at least 53 psi in idle shows 0 pressure. Research says look in these areas:

Trottle cable adjustment needed Faulty regulator valve Main or throttle Bad TC Bad Pump

When the pump was out I measured it to specs and turned the bearing fine and replaced the seals. The TC was cleaned. (Washed out) I checked to see if the bearing would spin in the neck area, but did not check to see if it would lock if turned counter clockwise not because I was lazy just was unware of this fact until after reinstall.

I have replaced the gaskets in the valve body and cleaned the black film off it from the cluth burn out. But not sure how to check to see if working correctly. Some type of compression test maybe?

I really think the problem is in the valve body but not having any preasure at all really seems extreme so maybe the TC or Oil pump. Any ideas on how attack or troubleshoot this issue? Thanks for all input.

snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote:

If reverse was working before your work on the trans, then I would say you must have put something back wrong. Reverse requires the highest pressure. It does not make sense that your line pressure would read 0 psi. A weak pump or leak would cause a reduced pressure, but 0? Are you sure you used the pressure test port behind the left wheel well cover? If you are sure, then I would suspect that maybe you put one of the valve body gaskets in the wrong way or the check balls, with the result being one or more of the hydraulic ports on it is totally blocked. Are you sure you did not miss a gasket or seal? 0 psi from the valve body would require a totally seized regulator valve I would think. Did you verify the valves moved freely before re-assembling the VB? If you did not re-install some valve body components correctly, I would think it could cause excessive leakage which maybe would bleed off a ll your pressure, but I am not experienced enough to say.

Some other things to check:

1. Make sure the TC was installed properly.

1. Make sure the shift cam engages the manual shift valve after re-installing the VB.

Before worrying about the throttle cable or the shift solenoids, make sure you can get reverse and 1st and 2nd manually with the shifter. The throttle cable will affect base pressure which should be over 50 PSI, not cause it to be 0.

good luck,

davemc

============================= My guess would be the oil pump. When you assemble the torque converter to the flex plate, you need to first ensure the oil pump is installed fully and correctly engaged. Have heard of others simply bolting the transaxle carefully back to the engine and then no oil pressure. A secondary concern is that if the oil pump is not properly installed, metal wear and filings can accumulate around the input shaft seal. This is all second hand information. Personally I keep the fluid extra clean so I don't have to learn how to rebuild transmissions.

I'm leaning towards the pump myself..I feel confident that oil pump and TC installed correctly this time by actually putting the TC completly against the oil pump to far (three clicks) and letting the TC bolts pull it back to the correct position when attached to the flywheel. I believe my past issue with it being installed incorrectly caused some damage.

So t>> The car started up fine but will not engage into any gear.

===================== Would definitely change the rear main oil seal while you're right there

- as preventative maintenance. Happy to hear any pointers about streamlining this task even though I hope I never need to pull the tranmission.

If you have it apart again, consider replacing the ATF strainer and gasket (for example a Fram ATF kit). Blocked ATF strainer, or cooler lines (tried blowing air through them while disconnected? Becareful of oil spray) can contribute to car not moving. But I wonder if a strainer can be that clogged to cause 0 psi at the main line port.

The valve pistons themselves, when dropped into the valve body should fall freely to the bottom of their respective port holes but should not have excessive clearance. Particularly the boost valve whose wear has contributed to the known sluggish line pressure rise and soft shift problems (excessive wear of clutches and brakes) of Aisin transmissions. I am not sure if the regulator valve stuck in the over pressure position can actually cause block off ATF.

I don't know where Aisin puts the main line pressure port. But if the pump is turning and ATf pickup is not clogged, it's hard to get 0 psi.

Please keep us posted. Inquiring minds like ours like to know.

ShadeTree via CarKB.com wrote:

So the oil pump looks good the rotation and measurements of the gears is at specs, the gaskets are new and good and the oil pump fits onto the torque converter just the way it should. That?s good news. The bad is I still don't know why I didn't, don't have fluid pressure through the tranny.

I asked a transmission shop if they had one of those fancy machines I could test my valve body. She informed me that if I had no movement it was not the valve body. But if I have no pressure how can rule out the valve body?

I'm start>> The postive side

My first engagement problem was the TC not fully seated into the oil pump because I left the TC on the engine (drive plate) and installed the transmission to the engine. That was wrong!!! I had no damage to the TC or pump. But if you do have damage there will be no guessing at it. Has you may already know the TC does needs to slip into the transmission first before installing the tranny. You'll know it is in place by turning two clicks in (may need to work it back & forth) and when installed correctly it may feel like it is rubbing against the oil pump. This is o.k because when you attach it to the drive plate it will be in the correct position.

My second problem with engagement came with no line pressure from a missed placed washer in the valve body. When I reassembled the valve body a put a washer in front of a spring instead of behind it. This valve was the main regulator valve which its name says it all. Now the tranny will engage into forward and reverse. If you didn't fool with the valve body at all then there would be no reason to fool with it now.

Suggestion:

1. Check for line pressure: Fastest way, but can be messy is to take off the cooling line put your thumb over it and have some one start the engine. At idle the pressure should be no lower than 53 psi you should be able to get feel for it with your thumb. Of course a compression tester is the most accurate and less messy and the tranny has a testing port dedicated to this test. If you have no pressure chances are good it is the oil pump.
2. Have pressure and no movement: now troubleshooting becomes a little bit more complicated but I would start with the TC especially if the tranny was working on the other engine. I think all TCs are basically rebuilt and should cost around 0.00 that?s what I paid at the local tranny parts store.

I?m still having issues with mine and that it will not up shift and the the engine break engages instead of up shifting..I?m thinking I might still have valve body issues. If you have ideas I?ll take them.

markr wrote:

No upshift can be the shift valve or the forward clutch (F1?) and brake band (B2?). Can the shops you work with test the VB? If you are certain everything except the VB is in good order and the VB continues to be a problem, then a $199 rebuild from the likes of Phoenix may help:

ShadeTree via CarKB.com wrote: