Slow oil pressure build up

OK it's not Landrover but many of you know a lot about big throbbibg diesels.

On my newly acquired 100KVA generator, it is driven by a Ford 2704ET 6 litre 6 pot turbo diesel of late 1970's vintage. There is an interlock that shuts down on low oil pressure, and an overide button for starting. Oil pressure is also shown on a conventional 'piped' gauge. When starting it takes several minutes for the pressure to get up to

50 psi but then holds at this as long as you run it. This means holding the interlock in for ages when starting. The oil switch for the interlock and the pipe for the gauge come off an 1/8bps 'tee' fitting so they are both measuring the same point.

What would cause slow pressure build up?

I've not yet done the obvious of changing the filter and the oil but I don't see why they would affect it anyway as it gets there given the time. I'd have thought if it was a hot / cold thing the opposite would apply.

Anyone know the oil capacity of an2704ET btw ?

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson
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Airlock ? Knackered gauge ? But I suppose then it would have to be the OP switch as well. Pump with serious bypass issues ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve

switch

Not the gauge as I tested the op switch setting on an airline and it was ok Could be the pump or its strainer I suppose - odd though that the pressure is ok when up to temperature normally I'd expect it to be better cold and tail off as it warmed up.

I'll change the oil & filter as soon as I can track down a filter (Mann H 1038 X anyone ????????)

AWEM

Reply to
Andrew Mawson

Not if theres a leak, the pump sees the "easier" path and takes it. As the engine warms up the "easy" path becomes less attractive and oil pressurises the system. But what do I know ?

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Could it simply be the wrong oil - too thick when cold to flow properly? I had horendous oil pressure problems in a Rover twin cam that I had. Turned out using the wrong oil was very bad for the engine and hydraulic tappets & head!

Reply to
Jon

Most likely problem is either an air leak or a blockage on the suction side of the pump, causing slow priming. The blockage would be a partly blocked screen. A worn pump could also cause slow priming. JD

Reply to
JD

First of all as it's quick and easy, bleed the line at the back of the gauge itself and see if that makes any difference. Check that the line has not been squashed at any point. Check any hoses in the line for unobstructed bores.

You do need to determine that the engine oil pressure is, in fact, OK. If the slow build up is only affecting the gauge and switch it's more annoying than potentially nasty. Otherwise ....

Assuming that you are happy that the gauge reads OK - or use another known good gauge - put the gauge as close to the oil gallery as you can get it. No long pipes. You'll then know what you are facing - I hope that it's good news.

An oil and filter change is a good first step. Check the filter bowl for metal debris. If it's a screw-in canister, cut it open.

Reply to
Dougal

I think it's a common one. Ask around the factors, agricultural engineers etc.. There are lots of cross reference possibilities from FRAM (CH834PL1 ?), Wix, Purolator(are they still in business?), AC Delco etc.

Reply to
Dougal

There's a whole heap of different sump configurations available on these engines. From memory the largest one I've been aware of (and likely what is used in a stationary application) is around 20 litres.

Reply to
EMB

The last one of these engines with a cartridge filter I worked on took the same part number as the old 2.25 petrol Landrover engine.

Reply to
EMB

Hi

1) Checked oil & Filter as Diesels do tend to sludge 2 ) Change oil & filter 3) Remove Sump & check out Strainer

Hope info Helps

Reply to
Office

I had a similar problm on an ancient Mercedes Engine on a barge. It was sludge in the pipe from the engine to the gauge. Swapped it for an electrical gauge on the block, a lot easier and no chance of a pipe fracture causing loss of pressure!

David

Reply to
David

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