Softening Threadlock

I have assembled an item using Threadlock only to find that a different sequence of assembly would be better. Any suggestions as to how to soften, or better still dissolve, Threadlock? The fixings are small, dome head, Allen screws (

Reply to
Richard
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Reply to
Ian Rawlings

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Steve Taylor wrote: .

Thanks (both). So it seems that I must 'enjoy' the current configuration. Heat is not an option owing to surround 'soft' parts and brute force won't work as the screws have very shallow sockets.

For those that are interested the item is Touratech's mount for the Garmin Zumo. It was supplied with the screws for the locking mechanism only lightly tightened. Seeing nothing about this in the otherwise comprehensive instructions and mindful of the vibration it is to be exposed to I duly threadlocked the lock into place on the right side. It is only now that I am actually installing it that I realise that those cunning Germans have made the unit so that the lock can go on either side. In fact it would be better on the LHS. But never mind. It's a bit academic as the Touratech mount (and Zumo) are fixed to the bike via a RAM-mount which is adjusted by a large butterfly nut - i.e. it's totally insecure.

Does anyone know where I can get 1/4" UNC Nyloc nuts?

Richard

Reply to
Richard

Depends where you are. I have some in my collection.

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Forgive me for butting in, but I thought the idea behind threadlock was to make it difficult, but not *impossible*, to unscrew the thread, i.e. you need force to crack the screw/nut/whatever as usual, but then you need a small but continuous force to remove it completely, rather than allowing it to spin off as a new component might. That's been my experince with Loctite and similar. It sounds like the OP has used superglue. Or have I missed something?

-- Rich B

Reply to
Rich B

Reply to
Steve Taylor

Indeed, hence me pointing out that threadlock is medium strength so if it was that rather than studlock, which is much stronger, then using force should do it. It's up to the OP to decide how much force is too much, however if he's already decided it can't be undone then I don't see what he has to lose by trying.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

Fair enough. My experience with loctite is mainly with rebuilding (relatively) large things that would cause serious damage if they let go - enginey bits, brakey bits and so on. Anything

Reply to
Rich B

He could always just turn the handlebars round, and call it a "custom".

-- Rich B

Reply to
Rich B

Sorry to be a pedant, but 'threadlock' covers all strengths of threadlocking goo, 'Nutlock' is the medium strength stuff.

Reply to
SimonJ

Hmm, yep, probably right, I suspect my memory is failing me but I can't remember what it was like before.

Reply to
Ian Rawlings

Ditto, nice shiny ones, how many do you want?

Martin

Reply to
Oily

done mine on me bifocals but used ordinary superglue just in case seems to have worked. Derek

Reply to
Derek

Hi Martin

1 ! (and perhap a spare)

Can I send you a reply paid envelope?

It is to replace the wing nut on this bracket:

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in the hope that the GPS unit shown here:

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does not go for an unplanned trip. You can just see the tiny screws securing the lock in one of the pictures. The lock is on the RHS but should really be on the LHS (these are not pictures of my bike)

My real email address is rjs AT nildram DOT co DOT uk

On a DIY forum it has been suggested that I try Acetone or Superglue remover and a lot of patience to soften the Threadlock

TIA

Richard

Reply to
Richard

I recall seeing, in an old model railway magazine, the suggestion of a tiny dab of paint. Not acrylic, I reckon, and they strongly warned against polyurethane varnish which was pretty new in those days.

Reply to
David G. Bell

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