Tbox 230 maintainence

Explain 'slowing'

Why are you making a connection with the transfer 'box?

Petrol/diesel?

Unless you are exceptionally fat and cannot lie underneath, nothing other than a suitable spanner to remove the fill plug.

This sounds very much to me like a ceased hand brake mechanism, if the handbrake shoes drag (this is attached to the rear prop) this will cause any slack in the transfer box or front prop to oscillate or chatter giving you a few jolts as you pull away or slow below 5mph.

Hope this helps, Fergus

I don't think you are necesserily looking in the right place, however ruling out transfer box problems is probably not a waste of time if you are having trouble finding the cause.

To check it, remove the rear cover and check for slack in the transfer box input gear/main box output shaft. You could also take off the cover plate (large oblong thing with quite a lot of bolts!) - draining the oil first would be a good idea. Looking in will allow you get a general idea of the condition of the internals.

You should be able to do this lying on the ground without any major problems. Its worth noting that un-abused transfer boxes very rearly give trouble.

Back to you description of the problem..... It sounds a bit like you're centre diff may be stuck "in". Go to somewhere where there is a hard surface with a small amount of loose gravel (little used areas of carparks are good) and drive in a circle on full lock. If the front wheels skip and/or scuff then the centre diff is locked. If so, get underneath again and, with the help of an assistant, make sure the gear stick linkages are moving things around correctly.

Hoping that helps,

Ricard

Check that the handbrake shoes are releasing properly.

It sounds to me like they are not.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Thanks, I had the handbrake tightened at the dealer it was not engaging at all due to oil on the drum now one click grabs goes to three clicks if thats to tight I could loosen it.The t-box feels like someone put cut up inertube in it. Somethings needed somewhere. Doh Should I have seal work done 700 us.

Back door rattles. leaky valve covers.

How much??? Are we just talking about the LT230 rear prop flange output seal here? I thought that seal was easily done in situ once the handbrake drum assembly has been removed? I've not had to do this exact job myself yet but the front prop flange seal is certainly very quick and easy, even if you do the bearings at the same time. I would have thought this was under an hours job but you'll be wanting a new set of handbrake shoes as well. I wouldn't pay more than £100/$170

Fergus

do they do that often? Set off to work in my 90 a bit ago and it was a git to steer, made funny noises and the handling was "interesting". The lock lever was in unlocked position and the lock light was out. At work l8r I jacked one corner up and it made a clang! and the wheel shuddered when I took the h/brake off and its been ok since

Jon

I loosened the hand brake nut 17mm or something on the bottom of the drum.The thing must have got tighter and tighter because the car was starting to slow down. I hope I didt burn up anything .Can that cause vibration to the steering wheel? Thanks seems to be better. Changed the oil the other day smelled like old oil. The oil guy practically stripped the plg.Do input seal usually leak on transfer case

I loosened the hand brake nut 17mm or something on the bottom of the drum.The thing must have got tighter and tighter because the car was starting to slow down. I hope I didt burn up anything .Can that cause vibration to the steering wheel? Thanks seems to be better. Changed the oil the other day smelled like old oil. The oil guy practically stripped the plg. Do input seal usually leak on transfer case. ty bye