Can I do my own brakes?

I don't fancy myself terribly mechanical and I do my own brakes. And I feel like a manly man doing them. WHen I'm done I can't believe what people pay to have that job done because it's pretty damned easy.

Don't really need a manual--just find a person that's done brakes before to hold your hand a little, and it's a snap. As for special tools--a caliper compression tool, and maybe one of those one man bleeder pumps or some such. Though to be honest, I've stayed away with messing with that and just timed my pad job about the time when the brake fluid changing needs to happen at the dealer anyway.

Search this forum at groups.google.com for posts on the subject. I got some great advice here a long time ago.

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.
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Our 2003 Outback wagon needs a brake-job. New pads front and back. I would like to do it myself but I have never done anything like that before. What kind of manual do I need? Is it a smart thing to do in the first place? I am not completely left handed and I do know some people I could call for advice but they do not live close by. Your thoughts please.

Peter

Reply to
kaasman

Hi,

I AM pretty close to being completely left-handed (and dyslexic, too!) but brakes aren't that big a deal on most cars, assuming you're replacing pads before there's other damage and you don't have to get the rotors off to have 'em turned (opinions vary on turning rotors: some say do it automatically, others go by overall condition of the rotors. I'm of the latter school.) Get yourself a Haynes AND a Chilton's manual and read thru 'em (you want both cuz each has strong and weak points, and they complement each other somewhat.) I've gotten on good terms with my dealer parts guy and he gives me tips if I ask about "what's gonna be weird about this job?" You should be able to do okon your own, but, if at any point in the job you feel you're over your head, give those friends a call!

Best of luck,

Rick

Reply to
Rick Courtright

Thanks for the support! I looked up both Haynes and Chilton's books but they don't seem to cover our 2003 Outback. I would feel better if I had a manual, does anybody have suggestions?

Kaasman

Reply to
kaasman

I got a service manual for my Subaru on a CD from ebay. It is full of PDF's. Printing them all would be expensive, but of course, I don't have to print them all.

I paid about $20. Unfortunately, it seems that it's a bootleg copy. If you're OK with that, check ebay.

Tom

Reply to
Tom Reingold

Brief procedure follows:

Assemble tools; jack, jackstands, 19mm socket or tire iron, 17mm socket, socket extensions, ratchet, breaker-bar, large "C" clamp, large needle-nose pliers, bailing wire, clean rags, spray "brake cleaner", etc. Jack car and place on jack stands. Pull wheels. Using 17mm socket and breaker bar, loosen two bolts holding caliper assy to hub. (Bolts inserted from back side ((inner side)) of hub) Remove caliper assy by lifting radially away from rotor. May require some effort if rotors are worn/rusty; try rocking the caliper from side to side to compress the piston a bit. Inspect rotor. Pull for resurfacing if required (severe scoring, etc.). To pull, use two 8mm (?) screws in tapped holes to "jack" rotor off of hub. (Normally not necessary, just grab it and pull.) Note that the e-brake is a drum brake assy inside of the rear rotor. If pulling the rear rotor, be careful not to dislodge the e-brake shoes (e-brake _must_ be off; loosen adjuster if it seems tight). Support caliper assy by wiring it to the spring while rotors are being done. Remove pads from assy, noting position of springs and such. Use "C" clamp to compress piston into caliper. (Watch to be sure reservoir doesn't overflow.) Install new pads, and position springs as per original. Install caliper over rotor, re-install bolts, and torque to 40-50ftlb. Install wheel. Apply brakes to close calipers onto rotor. Check for proper fluid level. Repeat for additional wheels.

I like to perform several hard braking cycles to seat the new pads. Accelerate to ~30MPH, and apply brakes to just short of activating ABS (wheel lockup). Repeat two or three times. Drive a couple minutes to allow pads/rotors to cool, and do it again. Remember to check the rearview before braking; you don't want to acquire a new bumper-sticker ;-) After seating pads, test installation by performing hard breaking manoeuver with hands off wheel; should stop straight with minimal steering pull. Severe pull probably means a mistake in re-assembly on side opposite pull.

Hope this is helpful.

ByeBye! S.

Steve Jernigan KG0MB Laboratory Manager Microelectronics Research University of Colorado (719) 262-3101

Reply to
S

Also, note that the sliding parts of the caliper and pad mountings can corrode. They must be free to move as you apply and release the brakes or your brakes may drag. Auto part stores should carry grease for lubricating the calipers and mounting points. Clean and lube the surfaces of calipers over which the pads slide. A wire brush is helpful for surface rust. Clean or replace and lube mounting hardware.

On my '96 Legacy Outback, each caliper is mounted with 1 bolt and 1 guide pin. There are dust boots and bushings and the caliper must be free to move back and forth over the bushings. And the pads must be free to slide within the caliper as brakes are applied and then released.

Ed P

Reply to
Ed P

Thank you guys! As soon as I can find time I am going to try it!

Peter

Reply to
kaasman

I agree on all parts, except I open up the bleeder when compressing the piston to let all of the gunk out. Not catastrophic if you don't do it, but it certainly doesn't hurt to bleed them on a pad change.

-Kurt

S wrote:

Reply to
Kurt C. Hack

Kurt,

Is any special equipment here needed to make sure the system doesn't get air in it? Or is it just a matter of closing the bleeder while you still have pressure on the piston?

Best Regards,

-- Todd H.

2001 Legacy Outback Wagon, 2.5L H-4 Chicago, Illinois USA
Reply to
Todd H.

I don't use anything fancy. I just use one of those cheap one-way valves from the parts store and close off the bleader while applying pressure just to be sure. It helps to have someone to assist either applying pressure or closing the valve as it takes a third hand sometimes.

-Kurt

Todd H. wrote:

Reply to
Kurt C. Hack

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