TI 300 heater blower problems

Follow the wiring, and fix the earth.

If it's only the heater that's failed, do indeed fit another (removable) earth, and check that everything else works OK. They usually do. Our waggons are not as fussy as some modern all electronic rice burning motors, but still take care.

If more than one system is acting up, then there will be a common earth point somewhere. As usual, consult the appropriate diagrams to find out what and where, so as to fix it.

Have Fun.

Remember, if you have to, dis' the battery -ve lead, to make it all safe. But first make sure you know any security codes you may need to bring it back to life after, AND how to input them! The stereo, and any alarm systems etc etc often complain about a lack of 12V for a significant time..

Dave B.

Thanks Dave

Local Auto electrician got its sorted (not cheap )

As you said earth wire to the block and the spade terminal (Lucar ) had disintegrated

I had been having problems with the indicator light in the dash not working intermittently when indicating left

That seems to have been sorted as well

Have acquired several cd's of the D! / D2 and Freelander , must have a look through them

Many thanks again Dave

No worries...

I've fought bad earths tooooooooooooo many times now, and I still get tricked on ocasions.

At best you just get "funny things" (seemingly unrelated) happening. At worst, the car doesnt work at all. (ECU's are fussy bu**ers.)

Bad battery grounds are especially nasty, if like many you have a CB or big stereo wired direct to the battery, *AND* body ground (via the antenna coax for example.) When you crank the lump over, "A Lot" of amps can flow arround your alternative battery ground!..

I've seen one CB catch fire like that. Most spectacular.

Always ground to the body/frame where posible, not the battery -ve post. If you *Have* to run a -ve lead to the battery, put a fuse in it, big enough not to blow in error, but small enough to protect the thinest "earth" wire so connected..

A bad engine ground, will lead to poor starting (if at all) poor charging, and on old series 3 diesels, the engine seems to run hotter at night! (An effect caused by the bad ground, the alternator current running the lights, and how the temperature sensor is wired, and how it works.)

Again, I've fixed enough of them now to just go straight there and replace it. Good mechanical fixing is no guide to good electrical continuity where Brummie electrics are concerned.

Take care y'all.

Dave B.

| > Thanks Dave | >

| > Local Auto electrician got its sorted (not cheap ) | >

| > As you said earth wire to the block and the spade terminal (Lucar ) had | > disintegrated | >

| > I had been having problems with the indicator light in the dash not working | > intermittently when indicating left | >

| > That seems to have been sorted as well | >

| > Have acquired several cd's of the D! / D2 and Freelander , must have a look | > through them | >

| > Many thanks again Dave | | No worries... | | I've fought bad earths tooooooooooooo many times now, and I still get | tricked on ocasions. | | At best you just get "funny things" (seemingly unrelated) happening. | At worst, the car doesnt work at all. (ECU's are fussy bu**ers.) | | Bad battery grounds are especially nasty, if like many you have a CB or | big stereo wired direct to the battery, *AND* body ground (via the | antenna coax for example.) When you crank the lump over, "A Lot" of | amps can flow arround your alternative battery ground!.. | | I've seen one CB catch fire like that. Most spectacular. | | Always ground to the body/frame where posible, not the battery -ve post. | If you *Have* to run a -ve lead to the battery, put a fuse in it, big | enough not to blow in error, but small enough to protect the thinest | "earth" wire so connected.. | | | A bad engine ground, will lead to poor starting (if at all) poor | charging, and on old series 3 diesels, the engine seems to run hotter at | night! (An effect caused by the bad ground, the alternator current | running the lights, and how the temperature sensor is wired, and how it | works.) | | Again, I've fixed enough of them now to just go straight there and | replace it. Good mechanical fixing is no guide to good electrical | continuity where Brummie electrics are concerned. | | Take care y'all. | | Dave B. |

Thanks Dave

Ok on the fuses on the negative side

CB what's that ?? ,

Don't think I've missed anything ;-))

I use Boafungs nowadays ( the go anywhere V/UHF handies ) I'm sure you know them