V8 temperature

It's a bit of a grey area as it depends where the sensor is fitted as there can be quite a difference between location. As a guide the 101 has a V8 with Capilary gauge sender in the top of the manifold. Hot is 110 deg c. I found normal motoray running to be 84 deg C cruise and hills 87 deg C (as per a maplins temp gauge just before it gave up the ghost).

I'd say 93 Upward and see if it comes on too often. Keep an eye on the gauge.. If you start getting twichy because it's nt kicked in then adjust it so it comes on comfortably before the red.

A 101's V8 is hauling alot more landrover ass than your common garden Rangie so my figures may be above the norm.

Lee D

overheating?

I've got a V8 in my SIII with electric cooling fan which uses a capillary sensor in the top hose just after the thermostat. I've adjusted the fan to switch in when the temperature needle on the dash gauge just clears the top of the 'N' on the gauge. I've no idea what this temperature is, but it works fine. I'm using the standard SIII radiator too and the fan never cuts in during normal cruising (I've got an indicator light rigged up that shows me when the fan is running) - the unassisted airflow through the rad keeps the temp needle on the bottom end of the 'N'. The only time the fan runs is when I'm in very slow moving traffic or crawling around offroad (no ram air through the rad).

Steve

in article wD13d.23688$ snipped-for-privacy@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk, Liam at snipped-for-privacy@blueyonderDOT.coDOT.uk wrote on 18/9/04 10:19 pm:

Can't tell you what the temp is - just where the needle sits on the guage. Discovery 3.5 V8i just below the quarter mark and whilst towing caravan to Wales, just under the half way mark. Range Rover 3.5 sits on the half way mark or just under.

According to my gauge normal running is around 85 C but when stationary or slow moving it only takes a minuet or so for it to rise to 95 C so I've set the fan to come on at about 90 C.

Once the fans are running the temperature doesn't go down or up and the fans just keep running, is this normal or should the temperature drop with the fans on.

The radiator (Range Rover) as far as I know is in good condition, the fans are two 14" (?) Kenlows. The gauge sender is mounted in the inlet manifold and the fan switch is in the top hose of the radiator.

Liam

In message , Liam writes

I assume you've got an 80 degree thermostat (or thereabouts). When this starts to open the rad cools the water and the overall engine temperature stabilises at 85 degrees. As the rad can't cope with the heat when there's no air-flow the temperature rises. When the fans turn on this should cool the rad and thus the overall temperature should drop to whatever the 'off-point' is of the fans. With two 14" fans the temperature should drop like a stone. Since this isn't happening I'd suggest the following in order:

1) check *both* fans are running and are close to the rad! 2) check the rad isn't full of mud/dirt/grass/pedestrians - wash it out 3) flush the rad - good reverse flush with a hose

On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 19:44:53 +0100, AJG enlightened us thusly:

FWIW, I've never made this do anything worthwhile. a knackered rad is still knackered afterwards, unless you have a really huge water supply. Normal domestic water supply will happily flow through about a couple of dozen rad tubes, without generating enough pressure to flush the rest. now if you had a 1.5" bore pipe with about a hundred foot head behind it, you might stand a chance.

in article snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Austin Shackles at snipped-for-privacy@ddol-las.fsnet.co.uk wrote on 20/9/04 8:04 pm:

cold water pressure washer?

The temperature should drop with the fans on, then the fans should cut out. You'll probably have better results with the fan thermostat mounted in the top tank of the radiator or in the top of the thermostat housing so it's seeing the temperature of the water leaving the engine, and you're sure it actually has a good flow of water past it.

On or around Mon, 20 Sep 2004 20:42:56 +0100, Nikki Cluley enlightened us thusly:

still no flow rate though, it's flow rate you need. the CWPwasher actually uses *less* water, at V high pressure. The problem is that all the tubes add up to more surface area than you think, and the typical garden hose is only about 15 tubes-worth, maybe 20. So long as that many tubes are clear, you're not gonna get any build-up of pressure.

I had already given the rad a thorough clean and when I flushed it out there didn't seem to be any dirt coming out. The fans are both running in the right direction and they are actually mounted directly onto the rad its self, the cowling around the fans kind of seals against the rad so all the air can only go through the rad.

One thing I just noticed today was when I had the engine running with the bonnet open, when the fans came on the temp dropped straight away and the fans switched off after a minute or so. So I'm thinking that there may be a air flow problem through the engine bay when the bonnet is closed.

Liam

On or around Tue, 21 Sep 2004 16:23:50 GMT, "Liam" enlightened us thusly:

has it got aircon? Sister's BF had loads of hassle with a 3.9 V8 with aircon overheating, and in the end removed the aircon radiator, which solved it, by allowing a decent aifrlow through the main rad.

No it doesn't have aircon.

Liam