It won't be on a fuse by itself. All the warning lights on some earlier
models were on the same fuse (Passenger compartment fusebox, fuse 1 for
I'm assuming that you don't have a general warning light issue so it's
either a blown bulb (does this model have bulbs?) or a case of crawling
underneath and checking at the switch to tell you where to look next.
Another thought .... are you sure that the diff lock is actually
engaged? The position of the lever only indicates that the diff lock is
set up to engage NOT that it is necessarily actually engaged. The switch
is actuated by the selector fork when lock engagement occurs.
Linkage seizure is common: I'm guessing that as you haven't mentioned
lever problems that this isn't an issue in your case.
It appeared to engage OK as I had traction. I was changing a wheel on
our (sloping) drive and as an extra precaution engaged diff-lock to
reduce risk of rolling of the jack.
It worked last week when I first changed the wheel because of a
Will have to trace wiring.
I don't think that you have confirmed actual lock engagement. You may
have been lucky the other day and the dog clutch teeth were aligned:
there's no guarantee that the same condition existed when you tried it
on the more recent attempt.
The handbook, even the parts books, frequently doesn't tell you
everything! You may have bulbs but getting at them is likely to be
Before you get yourself cold and dirty try to see if it engages when you
have the opportunity to drive a bit after selecting the lock.
Should it engage when you're trying it and the indicator circuit is
faulty, will you recognise that it has engaged and know how to get it
disengaged if wound up and refusing to disengage?
With the RRC the bulbs are just fairly easily obtainable capless ones
installed in a carrier. Assembled together they come to a silly price
When engaged you'll get vibration when doing turns on hard (grippy)
surfaces. It'll get progressively worse.
What you need to do is to get one wheel to slip relative to the others.
Put the lever to the disengaged position. Driving with at least one
wheel on soft ground or 'jumping' off a kerb at reasonable speed will
usually work. Just driving backwards and forwards, even zigzagging a bit
often doesn't work: you don't get enough relative movement.
If all else fails, raise a wheel but take care! Sudden movement is possible.
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