Astra mk4 cooling electrics

Hello,

Just bought an S reg mk4 Astra 2.0 Di, its great but the air con isnt working. Anyone have any experience with Astra cooling electrics?! Heres the main points:-

a._ When I push the aircon button it lights up, there is a tiny twitch upwards on the rpm counter but no other noises. The vents are blowing air fine but its not cold.

b._ When the aircon button is on the Engine cooling and air conditioning system warning light on the dash comes on.

c._ I found that the "Engine cooling and air conditioning system" fuse was blown, I replaced it and restarted the car, then pushed the aircon button and saw the fuse blow again.

d._ I took the car to an aircon specialist who ran a diag and did some testing. He said that there was no fault code but he is pretty sure its the Fan Control Relay (cant find that in the Haynes manual but from his description looks like its the Cooling Module Control Unit). They want £110+vat to get the unit and fit it for me but say that it might also be something else. Also he said that hes concerned because the relay controls the aircon fan AND the engine fan and the engine may overheat.

e._ I've taken off the Module and had a look inside, it all looks clean and no damaged components. After taking it off I put in a new fuse, started up and pressed the aircon button... and the fuse didnt blow. So it looks to me like it is the Module or maybe something after it in the chain.

f._ The engine warning light sometimes comes on, then clears when I stop and restart.

g._ I've also noticed that the smaller cooling fan at the front has a broken blade.

Questions:-

Is this unit likely to be the problem or could it be something after it like a shorting fan motor?

There are two cable connectors going into the bottom. I take it one goes to the ecu and one goes to the fans can I do any more disconnecting / connecting to prove the problem?

The aircon guy also said I shouldnt get a used Module because they often fail.

My main worry is that theres a short in the system and it blows the new module. Any thoughts on this greatly appreciated.

Jim

Reply to
Jim
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Right, I am not totally familair with the Astra system, but can tell you that the engine ECU is wholly responsible for cooling fan actuation, and air con compressor clutch actuation, based upon signals from the high and low pressure switch, engine temp, and interior temp sensor through the fan control module, and compressor clutch relay.

I would feel that your fuse blowing is down to either a short in the wiring to, or the compressor clutch windings themselves. I'd disconnect this and meter it, having a good tug of the wiring, and the clutch itself to see if you can find any short. Repeat the same for both cooling fans, although you dont mention any problem with the fans not running for coolage of the engine.

After this, i'd code read the ECU as soon as you can after the MIL lamp doing its flashing and see if that points you in any direction, then (if possible) opening up the control unit and actuating the relay contacts manually to see if you can get the a/c to kick in at all.

If it works ok (if it doesnt begin to blow cold within 15-30seconds stop, as you are bypassing the low gas safety switch doing this, and you may not have any gas which will damage the compressor) then pull out the relay and with the help of a wiring diagram see if the ECU is pulling to ground the relative terminals in an effort to fire up the a/c clutch and rad fans or not. If it is, then it points to a faulty module.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

all quite in depth ........ another way is to use a power probe and see if you can activate the compressors magnetic coupling also check that the fan actually works when given a supply as it is the obvious suspect here showing signs of damage

Reply to
Mindwipe

This age of astra with the 2.0Di had a seperate cooling system ECU located in front of the nearside inner wing. It was common for them to get filled with water and corrode. This normally led to cooling fans not working, and the MIL being on constantly.

From the fault described it sounds more like a fault with the air con compressor clutch, as this is the only thing to cut in as soon as the a/c is turned on (there is normally a delay before the cooling fans cut in).

moray

Reply to
Moray Cuthill

Thanks very much everyone who replied. I didnt think about looking at the compressor clutch side of things. From looking at the circuit diagram the fuse that is blowing is on the same part of the cooling circuit as the clutch. The fan is on a different part of the cooling ecu that doesnt seem to be connected. I disconnected the power to the compressor and tried turning on the aircon and the fuse didnt blow. There was about 14.5 volts across the two wires on the ecu side. I reconnected the cable and the fuse blew.

At that point I thought it must be the clutch shorting out. So I reconnected everything put in a new fuse thinking that if I didnt try to turn on the a/c it wouldnt blow. When I got back though the fuse was blown! I wonder if my turning on the internal fans caused the cooling ecu to make contact with the clutch or something.

Anyway tommorow i'll disconnect the compressor power again, go for a drive, try the fans etc and see what happens. Unfortunately my ability and equipment doesnt really extend to getting the compressor out. One thing im pretty sure of now the cooling fans side of things seems fine, they cut in at 92ish degrees with or without the fuse. The circuit diagram says the wire from the fuse is aircon only.

The aircon specialist said the system had coolant ok so I think I could try throwing the clutch manually. I've only got basic gear though, I want to try and test for a short across the clutch. Im planning to run a wire from the battery with a fuse inline to the clutch input and earth the other clutch cable and see if that fuse blows. Does this seem sensible? I realise fuse blowing isnt a great diagnostic tool! Im not really sure how compressors and clutches work are they integrated as one unit?

thanks again

Jim

Reply to
Jim

Using a couple fused jumper wires is as good a way as any to try the clutch. You don't have to run the engine to check the clutch is working. If you connect the clutch to the battery, if all is working well, then you should see the clutch snapping closed.

Some clutches can be replaced. Best way to find out is to ask vauxhall if you can buy the clutch seperately.

moray

Reply to
Moray Cuthill

You can obtain the clutches seperately. The only downside is that some special tools are required to replace it....

Anthony Remove eight from e-mail to reply.

Reply to
Anthony Britt

Thanks, should be cheaper than a whole new compressor though!

One more question any idea what kind of current a working or shorting clutch should use?

Jim

Reply to
Jim

A working clutch should be in the 5- 8 amps area.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

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