Of course. Measuring the heatsink temp and limiting the output level has been around since the early days of solid state amps.
Indeed. So over its rated output. Doesn't mean it will burn out, though.
Meter was recently calibrated , got the same reading off the focus digital readout , The alternators been checked by ford and an independant and its fine
Local ford dealrship said the readings were normal with the front screen heater(quickclear) running . It will only operate when the engine is running and it does turn itself off
Still wouldnt power the lads stereo up the road from me
Some new cars are comming out with 24 volt systems now to cope with the amount of electronic gadgetery installed as well
Agreed i was just making the point that a lightbulb has a peak and continous limit like anything else , its just rare to run lightbulbs at thier peek output
:-)
I hadn't heard that, but some cars are 42 v...
Chris
Think the jump is to 48v. (approx)
Well a mains light bulb is designed to work at mains voltage. And while there is some variation it won't be over 240 by much. The most I've seen here is just under 243. And I know it's now nominally 230. ;-)
Low voltage lamps fed from a SMPS should get the correct voltage pretty well regardless of the mains voltage.
Note that the rate of charge on these cars is controlled by the ECU; the alternator has no regulation circuitry built-in.
OK, I've just been out and checked the voltages on my own (early) Focus.
The readings were taken with a Fluke model 23, calibrated to Category A by ASAP Calibration Services. All readings were take across the battery terminals, at tickover. (800rpm).
Engine running, no additional load = 14.21 volts.
Engine running, blower, headlights and rear screen on = 14.13 volts.
Engine running, blower, headlights, front and rear screens on = 12.55 volts.
This is in line with readings I've taken before.
I repeat, a battery voltage of 10.5 volts means something is wrong!
Apart from anything else, the dash electronics would be forever rebooting.
[...]
Well unless it was made by Crown :-(
Is this so the ECU can reduce demand from the alternator for a short period when high demands are on the engine?
Same meter i used calibrated as well
All i can think is thiers an issue with the quick clear in that case ,
When the quick clears off charging is always over 14 volts as your figures show
No, it's so Ford can use a technology called "Smart Charge".
A quick Google found this:
"The theory behind smart charge, is a battery will take a charge at its most efficient when it?s cold. Following start up, the PCM checks the Engine coolant temp, and intake air temp, and calculates a cold engine. It will then boost the battery charge, pulling it back as it calculates the under bonnet temp coming up. Its not there to compensate high demand as is the common misconception."
Using this system, charging voltage can be as high as 14.8v.
Chris
My mains voltage tops out at 248 volts it does vary though and averages 238v
I have seen mains as high as 260v in a college i worked at a few years ago
They were forever changing lamps
On the new van i picked up recently the battery is not in the engine compartment this must bes for the same reason cooler running battery not subject to temperature extremes
Havent got round to tinkering yet
Seems the idea of putting the battery in the rear of a vehicle is a good one, then? Still seems a bit over the top when local sensors associated with battery and alternator could do the same job. Bet it keeps the replacement costs up, though. ;-)
Right.
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