FORD ESCORT '94 STEERING/TRACKING PROBLEMS

================================== Before you do any major work you could check the track rod ends. It's not unknown for track rod ends to be screwed different lengths on to the steering rack which can lead to incorrect tracking. You will need to release each trackrod end from the suspension arm and then remove each from the steering rack. Measure the length of exposed thread on the rack at each end - this is (usually) the same on each end (assuming a matched pair of rod ends). If you find a substantial difference in these measurements take the average of the two measurements and screw the rod ends back on to the rack to the averaged lengths. Make a note of the

*before* lengths so that you can return them to these settings if necessary.

When you've re-assembled everything you'll need to have the tracking checked.

I'd advise the same. I can't think of any fault that could give the symptoms you describe., but whatever it is, it sounds like somethiing that could be potentially dangerous. On second thaughts, if the strut upper mounting are not tight and moving about when the car is being driven, it could give some weird steering effects. Might also explain why the tyres are wearing more on the inside. Adding positive camber etc. Mike.

================================== Correction - if not already obvious. Release trackrod ends from *swivel hubs* - not suspension arms.

If you want to try doing your own tracking there's a picture of my home-made tracking gauge here:

No welding needed and all the bits available from B&Q.

Cic.

Some simple tests you can do.

1) Check the steering wheel travel from the central position to full lock in each direction. It should be the same number of turns. If not then the steering wheel is not fitted on its splines in the right place and the steering rack will be operating somewhere other than in the middle of its travel when the car is travelling in a straight line. That can mean you run out of trackrod adjustment on one side or the other. I had a Fiesta with this problem once which I eventually twigged because I could turn into my driveway easily if coming from one direction but ran out of steering lock if coming from the other direction.

2) Measure between the front and rear wheel centres on each side of the car to ensure the wheelbase is the same on both sides. A difference could indicate a caster problem or a bent component somewhere. Within about 1/4 inch should be ok.

3) Check the strut top mounts are tight and any bushes fitted correctly.

Finally find someone with an old fashioned Dunlop tracking gauge who knows what he's doing and steer clear of these computer alignment places which are staffed by monkeys who have no idea how tracking works or what the machine is telling them. I've seen them set tracking so far out it was easily visible to the naked eye because the machine had the wrong info in its database.

Just because a car pulls straight doesn't mean the tracking is right. Tyre wear is always the better indicator.

Many thanks for all your suggestions and help, guys. I'll go through those checks soon as I get a chance to and report back. One other thing that was mentioned by a guy on the desk at another Ford main dealer was the anti-roll bar link rods. I know the anti-roll bar bushes are worn since they have always given that characteristic clunk over bumps, etc. but the indy mechanic I use said a while ago ime ago that these weren't essential to replace. I didn't mention the link- rods because I couldn't see how these would affect the tracking. Any advice on this one? Should I replace those anti-roll bar bushes anyway? I can see how a defective anti-roll bar assembly would affect handling but not how it would affect tracking. Cheers, Larry

=================================== I doubt if the worn bushes will have any effect on tracking but it's always worth replacing any worn parts. I would leave them until after you've done basic fault-finding.

Cic.

Reporting back. Steering wheel turns equal turns right and left. The wheel base length are equal. The steering rods are showing almost equal threads before they meet with the adjusting nuts on each of the track ends. I didn't take the track rod ends off since I don't think this would lead to the tracking actually drifting out after it has been adjusted. I feel pretty sure this would only be due to worn joints/bushes although I admit this is purely a guess and I could be wrong. The track rod ends show no signs of untoward free play. Checked pretty much everything for tightness. The n/s lower suspension arm looks to be the only place where I can actually see deterioration. The balljoint which is pinch-bolted to the hub has a badly split rubber - almost definitely caused by a balljoint separator sometime in the last couple of years (not down to me - so must be one of the mechanics I've used, though I can't think of recent job that would have required separation) and the rubbers around the bushes on the other end of the arms show signs of cracking but are sound. So far, from what I can see myself, it would seem that I should replace the n/ s lower sus arm but then I'm only back to where I was after Ford fitted both o/s and n/s two years ago after which the tracking was a problem. Having said this, the part isn't an expensive one so I guess it could be worth a try. It's only when you spend some time looking this way and that at a problem that quirky things start showing up. I hadn't really noticed it before but looking at the car from the front, with the steering in the straight ahead position, the wheels look to lean slightly in at the top, in other words they are not vertical and the wheels seem slightly splayed. Not sure if this would indicate a problem. Taking everything into account I'm now wondering whether the tracking was adjusted properly. I think I might just take up the suggestion to find someone of sound mind to recheck the tracking preferrably the good old fashioned Dunlop tool mentioned ! Thanks for all your help. ATB Larry

Thanks for all your help. ATB Larry

================================= What is the actual measurement / difference? They should be the same, unless you have different track rod ends.

Cic.

That's called negative camber, which helps the tyre grip in corners as the body rolls. Most cars have a bit of neg on the front wheels, up to about 1 degree, occasionally more on sporty cars. The specs will be in your Haynes manual.

Not sure if this would indicate a

If you have more negative camber than standard this could have been caused by fitment of the wrong suspension arms or struts. This might also confuse a

4 wheel computer alignment machine which is trying to align the front wheels with the back ones rather than just set the front toe independently like a Dunlop gauge does. I'm pretty sure this is what causes the massive cockups these machines sometimes produce.

BTW this business of 4 wheel alignment is basically bollocks but too long winded to explain why. Front toe settings are done perfectly adequately without reference to the rear of the car other than to centralise the steering wheel which can be done by trial and error anyway.

Hi Any tips on how to undo the rear bolts on the anti-roll bush mounting clips? It's positioned in the most awkward place possible, very close to the chassis upsweep into the bulkhead. I can get a 10mm spanner on it but there's so little room I can't seem to turn it.

By the way, I'm definitely replacing the n/s lower susp arm. The boot on the balljoint was so sliced up and full of grit and gunge and the rubbers which hold the inner bushes are deeply cracked that I suspect it won't last long anyway.

All the Best Larry

No specific tips, but it can be done without removing anything else. Needs a little patience however, and a selection of spanners.

Use genuine Ford ones from a dealer; third party ones often fail prematurely.

Chris

chris said

Thanks. I'll have to get hold of a few more spanners I think. A 10mm ratchet ring spanner would be very helpful here, perhaps not for starting off but definitely for removing the bolts - if the front one is anything to go by. I can see it would be easy to round off the bolt head at the back without a really good fitting spanner.

Helpful advice, thanks. The only thing I would say is that the arm I need to replace has only done 15,000 miles (two years) and is a genuine Ford arm. I'm fairly certain the movement the MOTer noticed was on the inner bushes and not the balljoint (yet). I take your point, though. Do you think that a third party one would last a couple of years? If so, that's probably going to outlast the rest of the car : ))

ATB Larry

The one my son-in-law fitted to his Escort van after an MOT fail developed enough play to fail its next MOT one year later...

Chris