Ford glow plug connection?

I think I have crimped plug pins on fine ribbon cables for 3D printer stuff but because I can't afford to buy a crimping tool for every size and design of connecter I come across, I generally end up using whatever pliers that are likely to give the best action (but rarely the 'right' action I shouldn't imagine).

... where you really would need the right power tool with the right shape die to guarantee a good job.

Again, possibly a function of using the 'right tool' and where the process is used in the 'right' environment. Like, if there is going to be any moisture about, maybe soldering after crimping, might seal the ends of the stand bundle and dome corrosion migrating up the bundle?

Depending on the definition of 'harsh' as above Chris?

Well they definitely win with speed and could probably be applied more effectively by unskilled (or less skilled) compared with good soldering.

As I said, in theory as long as you have the right lug for the wire, prepped the end of the cable for the lug correctly and use the right die, tool and pressure then isn't the point that it makes for a more predictable (also equals 'idiot proof') result.

I have witness some terrible soldering over the years and maybe the fact that my 100 wire soldered junction block was still in the show case when I left BT 5 years after doing it (because no one else had scored 100%) may play a part in my observed success? ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[...]

Here's the most concise explanation of why you shouldn't solder a crimped joint:

'However, the idea behind crimping is that it should be done so that there is sufficient pressure between all of the metallic surfaces that it slowly 'cold welds'. This is not an instantaneous process and takes a little time for the processes to happen.

If you add solder to the voids (we'll assume that the actual metal-metal contact region is so tight that no solder will leach in to it), then as the assembly heats and cools (and thus expands and contracts) the solder will provide a region which expands and tends to separate the nice clean metal- metal region or disturbs the natural movement of the metals.'

There is a wealth of information on-line supporting this.

Many years ago, I had some discussion with the technical team at A-MP (Now Tyco) when trying to solve a tricky high temperature connector problem, and they were adamant solder should never be used on a crimped connection.

Chris

That sounds like someone trying to sell crimp connectors and crimping tools. Tyco doesn't sell solder or soldering equipment.

Solder wicks in a capillary sense and fills voids. Solder also alloys with copper such the interface between lead/tin/silver (depending on the solder) becomes blurred. If you've ever struggled to take of a soldered end-feed elbow or coupler off a pipe say 10 years old you will understand how the metal migrates between the copper and solder.

Most crimp connectors have a form of strain relief, so as long as the solder doesn't wick too far and short of the strain relief then some resemblance of flexibility is retained while maintaining a good connection

I accept that a properly made crimped joint in a crimp connector is the best solution, however without tools, I would suggest with judicious care a soldered joint will still last a long time.

It sounds very plausible Chris.

As I said, because I don't have the very expensive crimp tools for the tiny connectors pins used on the likes of 3D Printer motor and sensor .. and RPi and Arduino stuff ... I just crimp with the pliers (to hold it in place briefly) and then solder to actually stop the wires from pulling out.

I'm also not sure my eyes are good enough to be able to hold a heavy crimp tool (especially in comparison with the size and weight of the connector plug or socket) with a very light and tiny wire and crimp it reliably (where the crimp has to be the final joint).

I have got some 16mm^2 cables, crimp lugs and hydraulic tool to do them with and at least I should be able to see them to do them properly. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

[...]

None of that is in question; the issue was whether it is acceptable to solder a joint that has already been crimped, to which the answer is no.

Chris

... depending on you having the right crimp tool or not ... ;-)

*Personally* and after over 50 years mostly soldering all sorts of cables to all sorts of connectors under all sorts of conditions, I think I'll stick with my solder_only or crimp and solder solution on anything that I don't feel I have the ideal crimping solution for (which unfortunately is most of the time).

Cheers, T i m