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I'm Doomed (the Damn Pinch Bolt sheared) !!!

Evening All

I am thinking of pushing my 1997 Mondeo Ghia X off a cliff !

With the arrival of computerised MOT tests, I was highly embarrassed to have a test fail happen for the first time in 15 years of driving! The above car, which is very well maintained, got through the entire test until right at the end, when the mechanic examined each of the coil springs in turn. Shockingly, the nearside front spring had sheared.

Some research in the meantime has shown that this phenomenon is not in fact unusual on Mondeos. So I replaced said spring and shock absorber with a fair amount of cursing, but without too much difficulty (except that I managed to damage the rubber boot on the lower wishbone balljoint - typical !)

Being a conscientious kind of chap, I then set about replacing the spring and shocker on the good (driver's) side. But bugger, me, could I undo the pinch bolt, holding the shock absorber onto the knuckle? Could I hell! Eventually, despite having administered copious amounts of WD40, heat and blows with a hammer, the little ****er rounded off nicely.

I then cut the rounded head into a rectangle shape with a Dremel. No further progress.

So, question to the group: What happens next? This bolt is still nice and tight - is drilling the whole thing out the only option? I tried screw extractors ('easy-outs' if you like) on a situation like this in the past - they simply shear off in the hole, as the amount of torque involved is simply too great.

I'm thinking that I will have to remove the shock absorber and knuckle as one assembly (necessitating disconnection from the driveshaft). I would be keen to hear from anyone who has any suggestion for bolt removal, other than drilling out (which will surely destroy the thread on the knuckle).

Thanks for all suggestions and offers of help - I really must buy that

1 year old Ghia X TDCi soon!

:)

Alan

Reply to
Mean Al
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Easiest option is to take the whole lot of (brake caliper off and tied up, track rod end out, bottom ball joint out, and take out the CV shaft), and then drill it out, or weld a bigger nut onto the end. The bolt normally seizes in just under the bolt head (there's a wider section just under the bolt head). I usually heat up the bolt head, and keep it glowing red for a short period (about a minute normally), then leave it to cool down for a while. That is usually enough to free it off.

Reply to
Moray Cuthill

Weld a nut on to the rounded head, the heat will help loosen it. If you have access to a mig, obviously...

Reply to
Tony Bond (UncleFista)

had customer ring up in a panic one saturday as i was just about to go home, he'd done exactly the same thing, i ended up drilling it just under size and re-tapping it.

Reply to
reg

In message , Mean Al writes

I'm not sure how the *computerised* MOT played a part in the failure.

Yes the mk1 and 2 Mondeos do suffer from coil spring failure quite a lot. Mine passed its last MOT at 105k miles and about a week later I was under the car changing the oil and filter. I was having a good look around under the car when I noticed that the OS spring had broken. The break was well rusty and the MOT tester had missed it.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

I don't think he's saying that it played a part, more that he'll be constantly embarrased until the car is scrapped, as this will remain on the computerised database anyone with the VIN and reg. no. can access online.

Reply to
SteveH

Oh right, that makes sense now.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

QUOTE: anyone with the VIN and reg. no. can access online.

Not Correct, you need Reg number & either the Certificate number or V5 Ref Number Once the car has been declared scrapped/sold only the reg number & the certificate number can access the details

Reply to
A C

Mean Al ( snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

So how do you get to blame the "computerised MOT test" for that? And, since it's "very well maintained", why didn't your undoubtedly thorough pre-test checkover pick it up?

Reply to
Adrian

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