Jacking query and gears

Firstly, do not get under any vehicle, even briefly, if only supported on a jack. *Always* use axle stands in the locations advised by the manufacturer. (I'm not sure you intended doing so, but just in case...)

It won't matter if you select 1st or reverse; the idea is to select a low gear as that will be most effective at preventing movement.

However, I would strongly advise chocking the front wheels. If you don't want to purchase proper chocks, use substantial lumps of timber. There will always be some "free play" in the transmission; that can be enough to allow the vehicle to move off its supports.

I always give the vehicle a good shake before I get underneath as an added precaution.

Chris

Yes, the same logic will apply (stick it in reverse) - and I would personally stick some sort of a chock under at least one of the front wheels. I would also use axle stands at the rear (positioned correctly under the body) and *NOT* rely solely on the car jack to hold the body up!

Since jacking the car will tend to lessen the grip on the drive wheels in every case the only safe way is to chock the unjacked wheels.

First or reverse will give practically speaking equal 'braking' effect, however, some cars should not have the engine turned backwards at all as it can damage the cam belt/tensioners (in theory) so nowadays it is not a generally good idea to expect a car to stay stationary by putting it in gear.

No need for brakes on a level surface. The axle stand you must use before working under a car will have a stable base to prevent the car moving.

You're a braver man than me (or stupider)

Try reading the rest of the post. I never work underneath a car without it being supported on decent axle stands. And there is no chance of it rolling off those. Wedging a wheel is of little use anyway - the wedge is just as likely to slip as a jack. Ever tried driving a RWD car front onto ramps?

No. Just more knowledgeable. Mike.

Dave, but as one who has had an un-chocked vehicle come off a pair of axle stands, I must disagree with your "there is no chance of it rolling off those".

Over many years of working on cars (a 1955, side-valved Ford Pop was my first car) that was the one and only time I ever 'took a chance and not chocked a car' while changing a rear suspension mount (and the car was on a level concrete drive) - and I never took the same chance after. Using a bloody great lever to part a pair reluctant components was to blame BTW!

As for the chocks slipping - never had that happen.

As for driving a "RWD car front onto ramps" - done it dozens of times without problems (until the front skirts started to get lower - and a suitably designed couple of small planks sorted that out).

So while I have digressed slightly from the repair in question, the safety aspects remain the same< *ALWAYS* support and chock any vehicle being worked on without exception - if at least two wheels are touching the ground.

use a bit of carpet or webbing strap, looped round the first rung.

It's just as likely to have slipped off sideways if you are so careless about positioning the axle stands.

To wedge the wedge?

I have ribbed rubber matting glued to my ramps. They don't move.

you drive onto the carpet before you get to the ramp, carpet does not get pushed away from the tyre, the carpet is trapped between tyre and ground and the ramp does not slip away into the distance. Simulates a feather edge to the ramp.

It works very well, as long as the driven wheels are on the carpet. Driving a rear wheel drive car onto a set of ramps forwards needs a strip the length of the car. As does reversing a front wheel drive car to get access to the rear wheels.

Just my 2 penn'orth...

The mistake that many people make (in that situation) is to be covering the brake as they go up the ramp, which then lets the front wheels lock, and yes, almost no matter what you do the ramps will scoot away into the distance, as long as you dont brake then the carpet trick works fine.

Once the jacking points are utilised, then where do you put the stands ??? I once lifted a car with a trolley jack under the jacking point, then put an axle stand under the sill as near to the jack as I could, then whilst lifting the other side of the car, the car shifted and the axle stand put a hole in the passenger footwell floor.

Now, I use four lengths of rectangular hollow section steel (50 x 100 x

4 mm) bolted together as a frame with wooden blocks under the jacking points. I can then lift one side of the car, then support it with substantial blocks of wood directly under the frame in line with the jacking points before then lifting the other side of the car.

I find this to be very stable indeed, as when lifting the weight transfer is from side to side rather than from front to rear (or vice versa), and I can lift the car to what height I need by adding more wooden blocks.

David

The other thing is storing carpet for this purpose. Rubber matting fixed to the ramp doesn't take up much extra space - only in that it prevents them being stacked.

Most definitely will put the axle stands on, I wowed never to not after a near miss about 12 years back on an emergency repair. Good advice to anyone though.

Ahh I see so first or reverse is fine.

I have never gotten in to the habit of chocking the wheels which I should now I found these

At a £5 for a safety bit of gear I say worth it. Its a shame I don't have any timeber laying about. I suppose B&Q sell cut offs which could be fine depending on what they have, probably chaper than £5 aswell I would hope.

Thanks to you and all for the excellent advice.

Hey up MrC, I see. I will definitely chock it aswell then. possibly with these

unless I can find some cut off timber at b&q in the bargain bucket.

Depends on the car. My BMW has the owner wheel changing jacking points on the ends of each sill, so if lifting with a trolley jack are ideal for the axle stands. But with most cars the sill is strong enough with a block of decent wood to protect it.