Jaguar IRS - Rear Wheel Bearing

could the hub be machined to get the endfloat nearer? Get a special shim made or try bearing shops. use two thinner shims.

is the plug in the top of the housing for filling with oil?

The hub has been worn by the dry bearing and is now too short - machining would make it shorter.

There's BRT bearings near me - they may be able to help.

The ones from the Jaguar specialists (it's still the same suspension as on the XJ6!) don't come thin enough but would it be feasible to get one ground down.

I assume the shims need to be hardened.

Grease - but had been, ahem, overlooked.

I don't see why they need to be hardened. All they are doing is to be a spacer. I made some some years ago by grinding a large washer to the right thickness, by hand. It's been perfect for three years now. You could make one by cutting a piece of sheet steel that's the right thickness into a shim shape.

Rob Graham

Yup, it's not particularly highly loaded & nothing touching it should move relative to it.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "Duncan Wood" saying something like:

It is loaded and the hub touches it, especially when cornering. It's what keeps the bearings upright and free from eventual collapse by stopping the hub floating in and out. A hardened one would be good.

If the hubs touching the spacer then you've got the wrong spacer, Jags don't normaly make shrieking noises whilst cornering.

If a rotating part touches it, it's no longer a shim. More likely a thrust washer.

from looking at the illustration it would appear that it is clamped up tight and effectively becomes part of the rotating hub assembly. So there should only be compressive forces on it from doing up the nut on the end. (which is why I surmised it should be possible to machine the hub (29) to reduce the length of the bit that goes through the bearings) .

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold. I remember "Dave Plowman (News)" saying something like:

Exactly. It's what sets the end float on a ball bearing hub, ergo it must be under some load when cornering (and slight amount when straight ahead). If it was supposed to be tightened right up, then fine, any old bit of shim metal would do (for a while).