Pug 407 2.0HDi flat battery

14.5v with a fully charged battery is bad news. It will cause it to gas excessively. But is OK if the battery is low in charge.
Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)
Loading thread data ...

This one was flattening the (new) battery in two days.

Reply to
MrCheerful
[...]

14.6 for Ford smart charge vehicles.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

In the 'old days' wasn't the guy who fixed cars at a garage generally about to fix all things to do with a car, within reason?

It amazes me that as a simple 'Electronics support tech', I seem able to fix stuff that appears to baffle people who work in that trade (and not just because they CBA or decide it's not financially viable etc).

Or how many people (can afford to) turn down work because they can (probably because it's not rewarding enough for their lifestyles).

Maybe it's because many things have become more complex and so people specialise? Like my mate at the garage often gets someone in when there is a 'more than basic' electrical fault or a car needs glass or upholstery work doing.

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

No. Car electrics have near always been a specialist skill. Although in simpler days, simpler to fix.

Very true. And even pro car electricians can do repair work I'd be ashamed of.

My old SD1 had a factory aftermarket mod done to the injection. By one of the few BL main dealers 'trained' to work on the injection cars. The fitting of the 'mechanical' bits was beautifully done. The wiring looked like it was done by an apprentice with a hangover. All the same colour wire (brown) and not even the correct gauge. With crimps made with pliers

- and bare wire above them. Taped over with insulating tape. ;-)

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Even with a fully charged battery?

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Silver calcium.

formatting link

Reply to
Peter Hill

I've only ever measured it with a fairly low battery, but would guess it would drop a bit.

It's quite clever; it turns the alternator off during cranking, and varies the charge rate taking into account thinks like assumed under-bonnet temperature.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Ok. I built and fitted a Sparkright Electronic ignition kit to my 83 Sierra when it was quite new ... and wired the kitcar, numerous radio, CB, switch, accessory and towbar jobs. But then that (well, 'electronics') was my game. ;-)

Agreed, I've seen such myself (and that made me wonder how they could earn a living from it!).

Hehe.

Brilliant. I guess to them, 'wire' is 'wire'?

Daughter was helping someone re-wire a trailer the other day and 'he' thought that he'd use the different coloured crimp connectors to match the wiring colours. ;-)

I guess we all had to learn sometime. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Check if there is light in the boot and the boot lid or tailgate is actually making the switch turn the light off.

Reply to
alan_m

of days it's been sluggish to start and today it would only turn over a cou ple of times.

the bonnet I'm greeted with a tone around 2.4kHz from behind the engine I t hink. Any idea what this could be and whether related?

So, had the battery checked and load test was good and charging system is f ine. The guy had me turn it over and he immediately said it's the starter m otor being too sluggish. Strangely I had thought that when I changed the ba ttery previously but didn't consider it again, even though I'd purchased a replacement starter which was lying in the boot. All fitted and starting is so much more responsive and with a turnover speed much more like a petrol than a sluggish old diesel. Hope that this is all it was :)

Reply to
marpate1

So what goes wrong with a starter motor that makes it sluggish - other than worn brushes which should only cost about £1 to replace?

Reply to
Graham J

Usually a dodgy connection either power or earth (which gets remade when you bolt the new one on) could feasibly be the solenoid internal switch contacts, but usually that just stops working occasionally, before failing completely. A clean out and refit would probably have cured it.

Reply to
MrCheerful
[...]

Worn brushes would be more likely to make it intermittent, rather than sluggish.

Oh, and brushes would be more like a fiver.

A sluggish one might be:

Worn commutator Tight bearings Worn bearings causing the armature to drag on the stator Shorted turns in the armature (usually caused by earlier overheating) Weak magnets (if a permanent magnet motor)

All the above pre-supposes the problem is not caused by an external fault; for example a high resistance connection in the motor supply, or a water pump, alternator, or power steering pump partially seized. (Not the case for the OP's car, clearly.)

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

le of days it's been sluggish to start and today it would only turn over a couple of times.

ng the bonnet I'm greeted with a tone around 2.4kHz from behind the engine I think. Any idea what this could be and whether related?

is fine. The guy had me turn it over and he immediately said it's the start er motor being too sluggish. Strangely I had thought that when I changed th e battery previously but didn't consider it again, even though I'd purchase d a replacement starter which was lying in the boot. All fitted and startin g is so much more responsive and with a turnover speed much more like a pet rol than a sluggish old diesel. Hope that this is all it was :)

Worn commutator maybe, or partially seized bearings? It's whether the gambl e of a £1 or 2 is worth losing half a days wages :(

Reply to
marpate1

Forgot one:

Metallic contamination from a failing DMF (common fault on certain Fords)

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Oh Lord!

Reply to
marpate1

Got one more if you want? ;-)

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

its not, unless you have alternate transport. Nowadays it is rare for anyone to schlep around to actually repair anything, it just is not worth it. I love fixing things, but I accept that in actual fact it is better financially and time wise just to replace (but I still fix things, and hope I always will :)

Reply to
MrCheerful

Best not :)

Reply to
marpate1

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.