04 Meriva 1.6 clutch at 65k?

Hi all,

A while ago now I heard the odd short squeal / chirrup as I let the clutch up between gear changes (often just say first into second and or third and typically from cold).

That seemed to have gone away but now it seems that as you let the clutch up as you were changing up whilst getting a move on it feels as if the revs are sliding down till they matched the road speed, rather than instantly.

Testing it further on the way home tonight ... when in say third and pulling away hard (well hard, for a 1.6 8V Meriva ) I'm pretty sure I saw (and heard) the rev counter lifting more than the speed between a particular rev range, presumably the top of the torque band? Bit like driving an auto. ;-)

On top of that the clutch is very light, where the slightest weight on the clutch pedal seems to start the clutch slipping (but the clutch action seems smooth / free moving).

So, is this just a weak diaphragm / worn friction plate or is there any stop or adjustment that could restrict the clutch actuator / lever from seating fully when worn and so give a similar affect?

If it does need a clutch, both CV joints are also getting noisy so I'll probably do them at the same time (assuming you have to pull at least one drive shaft to get the gearbox off and clutch out)? [1]

FWIW, the car was used for lots of local trips when it was owned by Mum and Dad and is generally doing mostly that for us still (plus the odd reasonable trip).

Cheers, T i m.

p.s. I replaced the clutch when swapping the gearbox on the kitcar a while back and being based on a Mk2 Escort it was *very* easy. I've never done a FWD clutch and not sure I really want to. ;-(

Transverse engines are FWD are both stupid ideas IMHO. ;-)

[1] Wasn't the Caviler a FWD that was easy to change the clutch on?
Reply to
T i m
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Yes it sounds very like a knackered clutch.

Cavaliers were the easiest ever to change, about 15 minutes if you had the right tools and had done one before.

It is usual to remove both drive shafts, meriva clutch is listed as 4.3 hours if you have done one before and have the right equipment, never changed one myself, good luck.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Yeah. I just tested again picking up the kid and flooring it in first also sees the rev counter outpace the speedo (and back when you let off). Is 65k any sort of typical number for this sort of vehicle would you say MrC?

Ah, so my memory hasn't gone, even if the clutch has. ;-)

Ok.

Well, given that then it will ether be done in my mates garage or by him in his garage.

Thanks mate.

Is there any real advantage going with any know brand clutch kit or for this are they all much of a muchness?

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

65K is very low for a modern clutch, but not unheard of.

Most available clutches will be much the same in quality, borg and beck would be a good choice, but do check the price of genuine vauxhall, they are often the best value/quality.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Thanks. I'm pretty sure Dad never rode the clutch, even towards the end so it could just be just a combination of loads of short-trafficky trips and 12 years?

Any idea of the chances it being a crank seal though (not that I have seen any dropped oil as yet)?

I've seen that with disks and pads. I used to get them from a local car spares place because they were (much) cheaper than Vauxhall. Vauxhall must of noticed they weren't selling any (or found a cheaper supplier themselves) and then the Vauxhall offering was significantly cheaper (and still appeared to be of good quality).

I've also bought a reasonable size / spec battery from them for around

20 quid on a 'special' and mate used to get the 'Buy for x 5l oil, get one free' deal pretty regularly (Vauxhall Trade Club or summat)?

Cheers, T i m

p.s. It's a sure sign my Mrs is getting older (than her 65 years) when she was describing (what I believed to be the) slipping clutch when she used the Meriva to visit some girlfriends yesterday. She said 'it didn't seem to have any ooomph' ... so unless she was driving it harder than I do or up some long hills *and* allowing the clutch to slip continuously I don't know what she means (or if she means what she says as it has no less 'oomph' than it ever had (and I know that's not a lot)). I tried to describe what was happening mechanically and what and why it was doing and even demonstrated it on our way home later that day but I'm still not sure she 'get's it'. And this is someone who built the kitcar with me (including changing the waterpump even without supervision (I was watching RallyCrooss ) and seemed to understand much more 'then'. I really hope it is just 'old age'. ;-(

Reply to
T i m

Sounds knackered to me, and 65K isn't unreasonable for a car used in trffic, I'd say.

I've changed FWD clutches, but on older VWs with small engines (so more room and lightish gearboxes). Obviously, room/access usually the worst thing. And yes, just as Mr C says, the first FWD Cavalier (and Astra) was a very clever design where you could pull the input shaft out and drop the clutch with the box still in place.

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Reply to
Chris Bartram

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Quote = 390UKP at an independent.

I am pretty sure that Vauxhalls of that age will have a pancake slave; it would be madness not to replace that at the same time. Adds around 50UKP to the price.

Be careful what you spend in total; there are several from dealers on Autotrader with similar mileage to yours for around the 600UKP mark.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Ok. ;-)

Quite. All the other cars I've had had typically been 'business' cars and therefore spent a good part of their lives trudging up and down the motorways (little clutch wear there etc). And this was also in days where there wasn't so much traffic about in general. This is

*the* first car I've ever had a clutch go on (I have changed clutches whilst swapping engines or gearboxes though).

Quite, and being the shape the Meriva is (mini MPV) any work done from the top is like working though a letterbox (to me anyway).

Opening up the bonnet on the Seat Ibiza was like a breath of fresh air as (at first glance) there seemed quite a bit of room round it and you could get at it all round (for a poxy FWD). ;-)

Shame this old 1.6 8V isn't one of those eh. ;-(

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m

Thanks for that Chris, at least now I can check what my mate would charge (with or without my help ) and see if he is close.

Understood. That's the slave cylinder that sits at the end of the actual clutch, rather than a traditional cylinder that operates an arm from the outside? So it's like changing the water pump / tensioner when doing a cambelt?

Understood. The problem here is the car was given to us by Mum when Dad died and we still run her about in it now and again (which she likes). That's not to say she's silly or sentimental enough to expect us to keep it if it became a white elephant, but at the same time I don't want to be buying anyone's else's problems, even if the repair doesn't make financial sense (again, within reason).

So, in this case, I'm sure you are right re it's worth and we are a bit like the Avensis V Seat question where compared to say a RWD car where I might be able to do stuff like a clutch myself (in the road even, as I have with the kitcar) I'm pretty sure any FWD car needing a clutch would just be too much for me (now) and with the facilities I have(n't) got.

The only good news is that Mum is likely to offer us something towards it (because she does stuff with other family members and it's her way of treating us all the same) and the car is otherwise generally known and clean. ;-)

Although whilst keeping all the above in consideration ... you have made me think about what I would really want if I were to replace the Meriva (ignoring the fact that the Mrs likes driving the Meriva as it's not too big, has a reasonably 'upright' driving position and is easy to get in and out of ...).

I think I'd like an estate again as the 'best car' I've ever has as an all rounder was my 2L Sierra Estate. I think the Meriva has it on the load height but for everything else (including the driving experience) I think an estate would have it.

Not sure what though. Focus / Fusion? Daughter loves her Transit Connect that I believe is very Focus like (based?) and seems happy to drive that around rather than the Corsa ... and I'm traditionally a 'Ford Man'.

Skoda Octavia Est? Never had a Skoda but have no issues with the though of owning one, or what else?

Key factors for me: (No particular order)

Fuel economy. Reliability. Cheap / common parts. Not overcomplicated (I don't need bells-and-whistles). Not 'expensive' to Tax or insure.

Too much to ask?

I would need a towbar (I normally fit them myself) but not to tow anything big so only a consideration that one *can* be fitted (unlike the Ka and some hybrids etc).

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I might be swayed to get something on this 'fits' list for obvious reasons ... ;-)

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Anything on that list (or cheaper Make variants?) that fit my criteria above please? Volkswagen Passat?

Reply to
T i m

Mechanically, any of your choices are OK if they have been looked after. All my recent hassles have been with the electronics (Astra Estate: ECU, Skoda: Injectors[s]). Bells and whistles are hard not to avoid now.

Any of the budget cars (Dacia and similar) may not be a good long-term prospect unless you use them for local pottering about. Friends have had mixed experiences with these. The taxi drivers I have spoken to when I was weighing up a car purchase like their Octavias.

There don't seem to be the estate cars around that there used to be (dealers confirm this) and I've ended up with a SUV as they carry the load and there is more choice (locally at any rate).

I suspect tax rates may change after the row over diesel emissions. Insurance is so subjective (to me anyway) that I've given up trying to fathom how they arrive at their quotes. Something big and not flash may still be a good insurance deal.

Reply to
Steve

And I'm not sure even a FSH covers *everything* of importance eh (but helps of course).

Or even 'then'. I had a look at the electrics of a mates old Porsche and another's old Citroen (Palis?) and there were relays everywhere! (Not 'electronics' as such but 'complexity' etc).

Ok.

Yes, I have seen a few round here used as such.

Understood. ;-(

Likewise. ;-)

Or even something 'weird', like my kitcar (or old but not too rare 'classic') because (I'm told) the sort of people likely to build or drive such are more likely to look after their possession.

Talking to an AA guy confirm at least the attitude to being willing and able to 'look after themselves' and having sufficient tools (and skills / interest) to be able to do minor jobs themselves.

It really amazes me when you see someone standing by the side of the road with the spare wheel, jack and brace but not actually changing the thing themselves. Maybe the spare was flat or the brace not long enough but that's why *we* all carry foot pumps and telescopic breaker bars right? (along with a tow-rope and jump-leads of course). ;-)

I'm about to speak to my mate at his garage and see what price he comes up with re a clutch for the Meriva and if it's around the £400 mentioned we will probably go with it (and if much higher will look around as I know he's not the cheapest but he is good).

Yesterday I think I noticed the exhaust blowing but they should be considered as consumables (although the SS system has been on the kitcar nearly 30 years now), front disks and pads and probably the same for the clicky CV joints on Vauxhalls 'these days'?

I'll still keep my eye out for a nice estate though. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m
[...]

Those days are long gone.

The last time I had any part of an exhaust changed was in the eighties. My last car I ran for 10 years, my current one is 13 years old.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Exhausts seem to last a lot longer these days, or at least the OE ones do. My better half's Lupo has the original system on at 16 years old (but only 50k miles), my recently sold Leon had the back box replaced at

120k miles/10 years.
Reply to
Chris Bartram

My Focus still has original exhaust throughout at 16 yo The Lexus is still original exhaust at 20yo, but I did do a minor weld repair where the back box brackets attach a few years ago.

My sister's Citroen (spit) had to have the brackets welded up at 4 years old, a new battery at 5 and a major gearbox repair at 6 (less than 20k)

I have repaired the exhausts on several Mercedes at the 7 - 8 year mark, mainly remaking the brackets.

My neighbour's Avensis is still on the entire original exhaust at 19 yo.

Reply to
MrCheerful

Can it not depend on the sort of use though (as with tyres, brakes and clutches etc)?

My boss used to question how I would get though twice the number of front tyres than he did over the same number of miles. Part of the answer was his commute was pretty well a straight line with similar on long / holiday trips and mine was mostly corners (and working in the City of London) and holidays in places like Norfolk (lots of small twisty lanes, at the time anyway). ;-)

Similar with lots of stop start runs rotting exhausts quicker than someone who always got the system fully hot?

Or are we saying that in spite of that, the insides of exhaust systems are better rust protected these days (good to hear if that is the case).

Cheers, T i m

Reply to
T i m
[...]

That. You only need to look at exhaust systems of 30 or 40 years ago to realise that their design life was around three years.

Perhaps it might also be that the emissions from a car running close to the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio produces less corrosive by-products also?

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Perhaps stainless steel? The exhaust on my recently disposed of '97 E39 was original (as were all the rad etc hoses)

The aftermarket SS one on my SD1 is also about 15 years old - the original mild steel one seemed to need a new bit every year or so.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

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