Rover 25 sounds like its running on 2 cylinders!!!

Feb 26, 2006 19 Replies

Hi,



Im hoping some one here can help me, cos I really need it!



I have a Rover25, 1.4i W reg While changing the starter motor, the main power lead hit metal , with the predictable sparking result.(yes , I know I am a prat for not disconnecting the battery to begin with).



Now the engine barely starts, it took , maybe 20 key turns to get it to fire up; and when it does it sounds like a Mk2 Escort running on 2 cylinders, and can hardly rev. Lots of metalic rattling( like a mega tappit issue) and , for want of a better word, effort.



For what its worth, Ive checked the fuses, checked over as many wiring connectins as I can find in the engine bay; all seem OK.



I now have that horrible ECU feeling comming over me. Before I jump there, does any one have any suggestions of what else could be worth checking out.



Cheers



AC


Check the battery voltage. Frying the ECUs pretty rare.

I agree, sounds like the battery is on it's knees and may have plate damage due to the high discharge current. Try puttng it on charge, but I bet a new battery will be in the offing.

Expensive mistake, but you could get lucky with just the battery.

PDH

The start problem is probably the battery, but not the running problem. It is probably the cylinder head gasket or a spark plug lead at fault. A loose spark plug lead would make it sound a bit like a lawnmower. A cylinder head gasket blown would have a different noise noticable upon deceleration.

To everyone who replied: Many thanks.

Just to let you know: The battery was charged over night. And started first time this morning but it sounded like total crap still. Very nasty metalic sound still, but reved slightly more freely. But I stuck with it on tick over and gently reved it. It gradually got better It now sounds excactly the same as before. I guess that the oil was low and sludged in the sump and took a while to fill the hydrolic (sp?) tappets. Its been a while, so I think an oil change might be in order.

Thanks again for the advice.

AC

As the battery was almost flattened the ECU will most probably have forgotten its running characteristics. It usually takes at least half an hour of good drivng to get the ECU to take up correctly. I suggest a good long hours run of mixed mode driving and then see how she runs after this.

Above all, don't be a divvy next time, disconnect the battery first.

PDH

Cheers, didnt know that about the ECU. Didnt know they were that smart these days.I have had a small run in the car and it did improve. So I think I'll find an excuse for a long run as you suggest.

Divvy? Yeah, at least. Cheers for being restrained!!!!! Trust me, the English language does not contain the words necessary to deascribe how bloody stupid I felt while laying under the car as the sparks flew. Its one of THE most basic rules. I mean, look at a Haynes manual. Virtually every set of instructions starts with the words holy words "Disconnect the battery".

AC

My old SDi 200, long missed for its good build quality compared to its BMW screwed up 25 replacement would often drive like a cow for the first half hour after I had taken the car back from the other half. Her driving characteristics were different compared to mine. On handover to her, she complained it drived like a pig for the first half hour before becoming friendly to drive. Then I'd have to re-educate the car to my driving characteristics when I got back into the seat. Funny that.

If you are going to drop the battery in future, obtain a plug in memory keeper to avoid all the hassle of re-education.

PDH

MEMS has a NVM not effected by disconnecting battery

The message from "powerstation" contains these words:

Not Vehicle Mode?

Non-Volatile Memory. Only the 1st Rover spi 800's lost settings when removing the battery the later Mems units are adaptive and retain the settings, constantly adjusting its offset from the factory settings to compensate for engine wear and driving style.

The message from "powerstation" contains these words:

Yes, I'm sorry, that was a joke. Of sorts.

Guy, wasn't it you who recommended that if you want hassle free motoring, stick with a 'clockwork' diesel?

The message from "Ivan" contains these words:

Quiet possibly - they do tend to go on and on and on.

Not withstanding the fact that the management control system (a selinoid which switches the fuel supply on-and-off) is so straightforward that even I can understand it.. :o)

The message from "Ivan" contains these words:

And when it fails you can usually find out in a few moments what it is.

& eventually they will get to 60mph, honest ;-)

The message from Duncanwood contains these words:

My old TD Montego was good for rather more than that! I can't count the Audi 'cos it's all electromagical round the injectory bits.

I wonder whether No Throttle Cable means less to snap or more to go wrong?

Reminds me of the time I brought home a screwed up 31 with nothing more than a brake stick and a ball of string. Long story.

PDH

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