Thank you. I couldn't get a decent colour match- the enamel was an odd cream colour. I mixed up some model paint and got something close.
I never cease to be amazed by how many shades of white there are ;-)
Even worse, post-VOC2010 they have become water based too, so utterly useless for most automotive or agricultural applications unless you can get down to almost degreased bright metal, and if you have managed that, why bother with Kurust ?.
Some people are gluttons for rust.
128 pages of rust in 2007, finding it and it's elimination.
Jenolite was always good on motorbikes when I was a lad. I don't know if it still is, since the 'recipes' of many things have had to change over the years.
If the surface is badly pitted, it will be impossible to get down to bright metal.
Kurust is intended to react with the rust and passive it, but if some of the rust is deep, but it can't do that all the way through - and the rust can break out again.
One approach I've used is rather counter-intuitive, and that is to flood the rusty areas with something which WILL penetrate it fairly well - ie penetrating oil. When this has sunk in, do it again with something more permanent, such as WD40. [No arguments about WD 40, please - it DOES leave an oily film.] After the WD40, clean and de-grease the surface - but not so enthusiastically that you take away the oil that has (hopefully) got well into the rust. The surface of the rust must obviously be sufficiently grease-free that it will take Kurust. primer, filler, paint etc, but beneath it the rust still has to be sufficiently oily that it is deterred (in reality, usually 'delayed') from breaking out again.
Of course, if possible also treat the underside of the rusty surface with anti-rust oil - as that's often where the surface rust is really coming from.
It can be done using a small diamond burr in a drill. But you'd not want to bother over a large area.
Grit blasting is the usual method.
In general, paint doesn't like to adhere to an oily surface, that's why preparation is degreasing the surface.
Or better still paint the underside?
I don't happen to have a grit blaster about my person.
That's why I said "clean and de-grease the surface". [Most DIYers know that paint won't adhere to an oily surface.]
Have you ever tried to paint the underside of (say) a 10 year-old car wing?
As witness mini sub frames, did anyone ever change a front one ever;?...
bead blasting works well if you have rust pitting
but you need to spray with an 2K etch primer almost immediately after
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Granville make some pretty good stuff for this sort of purpose; good old fashioned thick, gloopy stuff, oil-based (none of your water-based nonsense) so it's not bothered about the metal being scrupulously clean. A vigorous wire brushing serves fine and no primer needed.
Wouldn't it have made more sense to sell it just *before* the first serious rust appeared? ;-)
That seems like *monstrous* overkill to me. Especially on a roller which in those days at least had about 15 coats of paint each rubbed down by hand IIRC! I'm wondering if body solder ("lead loading" as we called it back in the day) would hold any remaining rust back? I'm *sure* I used to know the answer to that when I was younger but senility marches ever onward. :(
Guy I went to college with had a Porsche 912. A 911 body-shell with a 2L flat 4. He used an arc welder with carbon arc rods to run braze over the whole car. Took engine out, wings etc off.
He still had it 20 years later when someone T boned him. Insurance paid out and he kept salvage. Sold the remains for the same again.
It can work a bit better than some fillers over rust as the heat of the torch plus the flux does tend to kill off rust.
But the big problem is most rust has actually started from the back of the panel (where there is little or no paint when built) and any treatment from one side only likely short lived. Except for cutting out and letting in new steel - which can be done from one side.
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