rust - what to do?

I've just purchased a 89 G Ford Escort XR3i - it's in original condition and is almost mint with only 67,000 miles and a full main dealer service history.

I'm not concerned about the mechanics as they all seem pretty good and I'll continue the service history through Ford network, but there are one or two small areas of rust specifically on the two rear arches.

It's nothing major and is still in the very early stages but is there anything I can do myself to stop it getting any worse (and perhaps clean it up)?

In general is there anything I can do to prevent rust in the first place in other places - I'm happy to spend a little money and effort as I reckon prevention is better than cure.

This is first older car we've owned that I've actually been bothered about the odd rust spot and I have a pretty steep learning curve - if you assume I know nothing then that's probably the best bet.

Any help and advice really appreciated, thanks.

Reply to
tireless.orion
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It's a Ford - it's 16 years old. Have a good look underneath, I guarantee the arches will soon become the least of your worries.

Hellraiser............>

Reply to
Hellraiser

Are you absolutely mad?

Sand them back, apply Kurust or similar anti-rust treatment, skim with filler, paint.

To stop any more rust on the arches, ensure all the built-up crap is removed from under the lip inside the arch and apply a nice thick coating of underseal.

Whilst you're at it, and this will detract from the originality of the car, mask off the sills at door level (ie. run a nice thick strip of masking tape along the edge of the doors from one end of the car to the eother) then sand back the sills and given them a decent coating of black underseal.

Might not look pretty, but it will save you from having to have the sills patched / replaced at a later date.

Before you spend too much, though, find out if yours is a German of British built XR3i - the German ones are pretty well made and rot resistant, whereas the British ones are only fit for scrap (generally) these days - I'd certainly only spend money on a German car.

Reply to
SteveH

The message from snipped-for-privacy@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) contains these words:

Absolutely barking, I should think.

Reply to
Guy King

Surely you jest?? You could buy a better car for the cost of the service.

Do it yourself!

Reply to
Phil

I wouldn't send a brand new Focus through a Ford dealership let alone an old Escort. If you can fix rust then you know how to service a car I'm sure

- it won't add anything to the value of the car having a FSH and you will save a packet on the serviceingcosts going DIY

Reply to
Chris Street

Didn't ford have a few years when they forgot any kind of corrotion proofing. I remember a late 80's early 90's orion arround 6 years old where the floor to sill area had rotted away.

Reply to
Angus McCoatup

I had an '87 spanish built fiesta - probably the worst rot period...Still managed 15 years out of it with only replacement sills... Then a 1991 (belgium built) sierra - pretty much mint when I sold it....

Worst rot boxes I see are the mk3 festas

Reply to
jb

Do they rust from the outside in then? I'd recommend choosing a hot day and getting as much Waxoyl as possible inside the sills and any other box sections, then stand containers under the drain holes to catch any that runs out. A couple of days later, check the drain holes are clear.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

Regards servicing, please remember that the market value of the car is less than probably any service at a ford dealer and there will be nothing they will be able to do that a local independent mechanic cannot at probably 1/3 of the price.

Regarding the rust, the rear arches on escorts MK3&4s generally rust from the inside out so unfortunately its probably in its very final stages. When you come to treat it you will probably feel the water under the affected paintwork.

You can patch it up but it will probably come back within 12-18 months (personal experience) OR if the rest of the car really is close to mint you could have the arches replaced, however you are looking at about £500 for that including the finishing work.

Generally the best way to stop rot is have a damm good look over the car after a wash & polish. Any stone chips should be covered with a touch up stick, rust is a chemical reaction which requires air and moisture as a catalyst - remove those and you can keep rust at bay for years!!

MattF

Reply to
Matt F

I'm with you so far...

Nooooooo! IME, underseal only hides rust, it doesn't stop it. You're far better using (1) a good quality primer - I favour a military-spec red oxide, followed by (2) a good topcoat. I have some excellent chip-resistant black rubberised paint which I picked up at an autojumble and I wish I could locate some more! As an alternative for underbody work, POR-15 is recommended. But underseal only needs a pinprick to let water in, then it holds it there while rust attacks the metal, unseen, until it's too late.

Same applies. Strip it back, prime, good topcoat. You'll see any damage to that early, whereas underseal will hide it until you have to weld.

Reply to
Chris Bolus

Thanks for that, I have a couple of additional questions...

How do I patch the arches up? - is this a job I can do on my own or would I need to take it to a garage. I'm not concerned about getting my hands dirty but I have very limited experience and would be starting from scratch. The rest of the car is very clean, the engine sound and the interior perfect. I'd like to keep it that way if possible so replacing the arches may be an option.

I'll take the advice on servicing and will take it to a local garage - seems a shame not to keep the main dealer service history, but I guess the costs involved make a compelling argument, especially if I need to have some bodywork done.

Reply to
tireless.orion

The message from " snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com" contains these words:

What were you intending to do with it?

Reply to
Guy King

My 2p for what its worth...

Real red lead primer is very good, if you can find it. Its a bright orange colour that almost hurts the eyes. I had a friend who thought that this must chemically inhibit the rust process somehow. He was not sure that there was not a microbiologic component to the dreaded rusting and that this might kill off the bugs that were promoting the rust process. Its lovely and viscous and sets to a flexible skin as the linseed oil base hardens.

Lanolin keeps sheep dry, and I have found that a 10-25% in white spirit is wonderful for spraying the underside of wheel arches and floopanels and inside box sections. Behind the door panels is good as well and let it run out the drain holes. So much better than underseal because where you get it oversplashed on the paint work you can easily remove it with a rag soaked in white spirit.

Reply to
Peter

To do it properly the rust will need to be cut away and repair sections welded in. The arch repairs section are cheap enough, and it's possible for a skilled DIYer, but you do need suitable tools and welding skills. OTOH a decent garage repair will be quite expensive.

For this type of work you'd do well to look in the classic car press, and also ask in uk.rec.cars.classic.

Reply to
Chris Bolus

I would see the post steveh contributed.

Personaly i find using a Dremmel with a sanding attachment is great for removing rust, although be absolutely sure to protect all sound paintwork with masking and thick paper. Jelonite is a good rust treatment IMO.

Matt

Reply to
Matt F

I prefer a drill mounted wire brush as it's better at getting right into any pits.

Jenolite's not bad either. Followed by zinc rich anti-rust primer.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

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