Vectra MIL puzzle. Any ideas?

Feb 10, 2004 4 Replies

On my 1998, ~100K mile, 2.0L DTH Vectra diesel (not a stranger to this group) a new puzzling warning light scenario has arisen recently.



With the engine warm and lightly loaded or even on the overrun at, for example 40 mph in 4th gear perhaps at 2000RPM, the MIL sometimes comes on. Revving-up or taking the foot off the throttle has no effect on the light but a gentle dab on the footbrake immediately clears it.



What does the footbrake have in the way of links to the computer? No other light comes on. No ABS warning lights. There is plenty of brake fluid in the reservoir and plenty of oil in the engine. I recently replaced the poor condition vacuum pump and there are no diaphragm leaks on the EGR or the manifold valve actuator. I have a gauge connected to the vacuum circuit and that is no longer 'iffy' now I have changed the pump. I changed the mass airflow meter about 1 year ago and the car shows no problems under heavy acceleration



It is very inconvenient to get the local dealer to read my vehicle with the Tech2 computer - even for money. Has anyone come out with an adaptor which will link the car to a computer for the later Vectra connector - not the old count the blinks method for the early vehicles?



Perhaps you have experience of this strange symptom or have a knowledgable line of investigation? Please share it with me.



As always your combined wisdom is highly valued.



Many thanks in advance.



Tony.


Sounds as if the brake switch is need of adjustment. The brake and clutch pedals have switches linked to the ECU for the purpose of control of the cruise control system(even if cruise not fitted). The brake switch has a make and a break contact arranged as a changeover switch. The EML illuminates when both contacts are reported as being in the open or closed position at the same time for at least 60 seconds.

Adjust as follows:-

Remove pedal cover trim (3 quarter turn fasteners). Remove footwell air vent (2 plastic rivets - lever out centre pin then remove rest of rivet). Ducting pulls off stub on heater box. Depress brake pedal. Pull out brake switch plunger as far as it will go. It has a ratchet mechanism, so may be a little stiff. Release the brake pedal to allow the switch to self-adjust. Replace displaced trim.

If the EML still illuminates after this adjustment, then a new switch may be required. It may also be worth following the same procedure as above to adjust the clutch switch at the same time. Sometimes if the switch is right on the edge of operating with the pedal in the rest position, resting a foot on the pedal whilst driving will eventually bring the EML on.

HTH

Anthony Remove eight from email to reply.

Anthony, I think you must have hit the nail on the head. A month ago I took it in for its bi-annual NCT (Irish MOT) and a very tall tester took it away and eventually returned with failed rear brake lights. They were good when I drove it to the test. When I got it home I found the rear light 10A fuse was blown and the brake pedal switch was completely out of adjustment and impossible to set right without bending the mounting plate it is attached to.

I assumed that he had got into the car, which for him had the seat much too far forward, and must have kicked underneath the foot pedal. I adjusted it rather hurriedly to get back to work and never gave a further thought to it.

I will look at it in the light at the weekend but what you say rings completely true.

You're a genius - I owe you one for that! Couldn't think of anything connecting the brake pedal back to the ECU!

With increasing respect,

Tony.

Solution: tell the Mother-In-Law to shut the f*ck up or get out and walk ;-)

Spot on Anthony! Correctly adjusting the brake switch plunger cured the problem. I'm not sure I would have ever investigated that possibility. It was pulling out the plunger hard using a pair of thin nosed pliers that was the crucial move.

All quiet on the MIL front for now.

Deeply appreciated!

Tony

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