Waxoyling

The fact is, Escorts rust like...the Forth Rail bridge... Is it worth my time getting my son a pressurised spray-can (I know, the spray version is a VERY rough job for this!) for some spray-and-hope for his mk7?

I noticed whilst searching there's a couple of professional services, but to be honest the car's not worth that. Any major parts that you *shouldn't* spray waxoyl on? I recall on this newsgroup that "nothing that may require welding" is a good rule of thumb, but that could be quite a few bits and bobs!

Halfrauds do quite a range of Waxoyls, from spray gun, to pressurised spray-can, to a simple tin you brush on. I had a mk3 in my younger days, so I'm only too well aware of the rust (mainly cosmetic, I have to say) that can appear on escorts.

Alternatively, I suggested he finally leave our household, and just move somewhere *really* nice, with low yearly rainfall, with a garage. But being

17, he wasn't up for that. Prick.
Reply to
David R
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Think he'll be lucky with 5 months ;-)

Reply to
David R

The message from "David R" contains these words:

Current paint job on the Forth Rail Bridge is expected to last 20-25 years.

Reply to
Guy King

Wa\xoyl won't help & anyway he's probably going to crash it:-)

Reply to
Duncan Wood

I was going to ask this and you post reminded me. I am going to lay-up my van for the winter and although the underside is very sound and I've given it a bit of added protection over the past few years wtih the waxoyl underseal type stuff, I want to give it a good spray with the big tin of waxoyl I have sitting in the garage. I am tempted to put a light spray over mechanical parts like steering, suspension, back of brake plates, rubber brake hoses etc with the idea it will keep sliding metal parts free of corrosion and rubber parts protected from cracking. Its an old van D reg, but in excellent condition, but I do worry about the rubber bits deterioting.

Will the wayoyl protect or make it worse? I was always told not to get engine oil on things like radiator hoses as it was supposed to rot rubber, but that was many many year ago, so may not be the case anymore

One other thing thats occured to me. I've found ordinary silicon furniture polish is good for protecting rubber around windows from weather and it seems to stay blacker longer and a bit more rubbery. If waxoyl is not good for rubber parts underneath, could this help? I know silicon is good for lowering friction on plastic (making plastic curtain rails run smooth) and wonder if it might help here. Places I've sprayed it on outside seem protected from weather much better and even months later the rain still rolls off of areas sprayed.

Any helpful thoughts?

bucket

Reply to
bucket

I believe in using old engine oil. Free and works very well. Just keep it off rubber bits - although I haven't actually found this to be a problem if I don't, but it sounds the right advice.

Rob Graham

Reply to
Rob graham

I've never had much luck spraying the stuff that way. I brush it onto anything that can be reached, then do my best to fill up chassis members with it and let it flow out again. An old bicycle pump type garden sprayer is the best thing I've found for that. Rather than forcing the Waxoyl with pressurised air, it pumps it directly so doesn't block as readily. At this time of year, it'll need warming a bit to thin it. Forget about standing it in a bucket of water - just wait for a sunny day then leave the can in the car for an hour or two and let the greenhouse effect do the work.

Brakes and exhaust are the obvious bits.

The brush on stuff is thicker and better for exposed areas. You can thin it a bit with normal Waxoyl if you need to, so I'd recommend a tin of each to start with. And some old clothes.

Someone will be along in a minute suggesting that Dinitrol is much better. True, but Waxoyl's miles cheaper so you can afford to splash it on all over.

Reply to
Willy Eckerslyke

Thanks for all replies, I'll give it a bash.

I'm pretty ineterested in it due to the fact nobody I know has ever used it, and rusting on cars has been quite a big problem in my own past. Honda civic

11 years ago rusted pretty terribly in a matter of a few years, was rubbish.
Reply to
David R

To be fair Waxoyl is not as good as its cracked upto be- its too soft and washes off.

Dinitrol is the best .

Tim.

Reply to
Tim..

Ok. I'll do it. The problem with Waxoyl is getting it to actually cover where you can't see what you're doing - even if you do slosh it all over. Dinitrol tends to spread of its own vocation. Try both on a panel and see for yourself.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

I have a 20 year old Ford Capri that is a testament to the value of=20 waxoyling a car. It was done in all the box sections as well as having=20 holes drilled in the sills and A posts and being liberally applied in=20 those sections as well. 20 year old steel and it's still like new. The=20 only parts that did rot were the very tip of the front of the wings=20 above the headlights and along the tip of the bonnet and the rear=20 arches, whilst not rusty, were just starting to show the signs of the=20 start of corrosion on the weld seam between the inner and outer.

HOWEVER, if it's already started, it won't stop it. Use Dinitrol=20 instead of Waxoyl if it's showing signs.

--=20 Conor

I'm really a nice guy. If I had friends, they would tell you.

Earn commission on online purchases, =A32.50 just for signing up:

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Reply to
Conor

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