I was hoping some people with experience dealing with small rust areas could explain what needs to be done.
I have a 1994 MX3 that is just starting to show some bubbling of the silver paint due to rust. The patches are a couple inches in size, and are located just in front of the doors (underneath), and underneath the center rear hatch. None of these places are very easy to sand because of creases and folds.
I don't have any experience, so your advice is much appreciated.
Thanks in advance, D
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G
Grant Edwards
Yea, I just noticed some blistering on the rocker panel on my
96M. :(
The nose really needs a coat of paint, so I think I'll take it in and have that done as well -- What I'm afraid of is that I'm going to start seeing blisters pop up elsewhere as well.
R
RichH
Proper way to remove/prevent future rust: Scrape away loose rust. With dremel tool with small sanding disc or cylinder attached, level the area. You can do down into bare metal... just dont go through the metal. Get a phosphoric acid based 'rust reformer': "Opho" or "naval jelly", etc. If you cant find them locally go to Boatus.com or westmarine.com and look for and purchase "rust reformer". Apply the rust reformer and let it DRY, repeat several times. Apply primer, level the primer, spray or dab on touch up paint, etc.
The phosphoric acid the THE important step. It will change the ferric oxide (rust) to ferrous oxide (blueing) which will not 'push'/bubble. The phosphoric will penetrate down into the surface microscopic grains of the metal and will retard further rust. If you dont get down into the microscopic level then the ferric oxide will reform. Ferrous oxide is a protectant, same stuff that they use to create a blue finish on firearms. Even if you remove the rust to bright bare metal, the ferric oxide in the grain structure will start the rust process all over again; You MUST use phosphoric to 'reform' the rust to another form of 'rust' that doesnt 'bubble'.
H> Hello,
D
DanO
Sandpaper attached to a sanding block.
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