I'm having a rust proofing dilemma (again)

(Can't remember if I've asked this recently, don't think so though) As some of you may remember. I had my car sandblasted (halfassedly) and then coated with DP50 about a year ago. Needless to say, it's rusting at the seams, and I've had to weld in a bunch of patches. I am talking about the engine bay, frame rails, undercarriage, and the whole interior. So it has 1 coat of year old DP50 everywhere. What I wanted to do, was coat those areas with Zerorust as I've heard good things about it. My question is, it's meant to coat bare metal. So should I strip it back down to bare metal, or scuff it up, and then apply it? And if I do that, should I use a rust converter on it first? Or, my other option, was to scuff up the DP50, and then shoot it again (I'd have to buy another gallon of that then) and then shoot a single stage black onto it. Does anyone have any experience with zero rust.. On bare metal or over epoxy primer? I hate rust, and this car has a severe case of it (I don't think the sandblaster guy did a great job, the metal was still orange, and then he just shot it on).. There is also a bit of sand in it. So what is your guys take for the ultimate in rust prevention.. Zerorust, on DP50 or on bare steel, or epoxy and paint? I heard ZR doesn't need a topcoat, so that would work well, and hopefully it can stand up to the temperature and abuse of the engine bay and undercarriage. Thanks guys! Any opinions on this evil rust problem are appreciated

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JohnnyK
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