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Lost Ignition Key 1984 190e

Hi group, I am in Melb Australia. I have a 1984 190e . The previous owner changed the ignition barrel , don't know why. I have lost the only damn key I had to the ignition, so I don't think going to MB with chasis number will help me much. I hear the barrels are hard to replace . Can anyone tell me how I can get the barrel out. I was thinking on trying to drill the ignition out, bit the racv guy that got into the car for me tells me they are almost impossible to drill out. Any feed back appreciated.

Also recently reco'd head and replaced but since I have had what I believe to be an electrical fault. After the car has been running for

15-20 mins, Yeah before I lost the key, it just cuts out. If I wait 20-30 mins the car will start easily again. Mechanic said sounded like fuel pump relay, so I replaced but found problem still existed. Had a guy who proported to be onsite auto elec look told me it was the fan, then he says he tested ignition module, ok, then coil ok, distributor, ok, then tells me it was fuel pump.The says the relay that I had replaced was burn't out. It was obviously he had shorted something out. I bypassed the relay and it still does the same. As he took these parts away to be tested they would have cooled off and may not been in the same condition as when car stops. Any ideas I am lost Thanks Graeme
Reply to
Pintara3
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Your fuel pump is bad... drawing too much electricity and burning out your relay..

As for ignition key... try drilling out the core if you have clear access. If not, then it is brutal... you need to stick in a good stroing screwdriver with a hex nut so you can crank with a long wrench or simply use visegrip... You gotta break past the locking point use brute force... until the notches on the ignition lines up... then use two strightened big clip into the two holes... wiggle up and down until all the way in and the lock will pop out.

Reply to
Tiger

Do not listen to this advice. You will turn an expensive problem into a very expensive problem if you do.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

You got a better solution? That guy probably do not want to shell out $400 to have dealer do the job..

Reply to
Tiger

Yes the better solution would be to find a locksmith that is willing to take on the task. Charging in with an attempt to force the lock with a screwdriver will not only fail but is likely to cause needless damage to other expensive parts. I know this as I am a locksmith and I have had to cut these buggers out. If they have been attacked in the manner you decsribe, it will take the locksmith or the mechanic more time and cost more.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

Find a "High Security Locksmith" who will have the MB supplies and equipment to replace. Try

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DanlK, ~~~\8-O FYI Services Collectibles
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Reply to
FYIS.org

Well. I have worked on my ignition lock assembly so I have an idea on the whole mechanism. Even if the lock is damaged in the manner I have spoken... In the end if the tumbler section is severely damaged, you would have to change the whole ignition lock assembly.

Since the tumbler is free to move... as long it is in accessory or run mode, you can simply loosen the clamp, push in the locking pin and twist the whole locking mechanism... The whole locking mechanism with new tumbler is still about $200 total.

Reply to
Tiger

If you would engage your brain before you type you might not look so foolish. The OP said he lost the key. Since the key is lost, it is safe to assume that the lock is not in the accesory or run position. The parts prices are not really the big factor here, it is the labor to overcome one of the best mechanical locking systems ever designed for an automobile.

Locksmith will charge his service call, and his time plus parts. This will be cheaper than the dealer as that is the way things are.

Someone else was complaining about $50 for a duplicate key. Having no key is a whole lot worse.

Reply to
Roger Shoaf

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