Tiger, tried that trick of dropping a plumb bob down from each of the jack
points to see if the frame was out of alignment on my '81 240D. The
diagional dimensions were only about 1/8-inch different so the frame is
obviously okay. I still think that somehow those two rear wheel bearing
carriers got twisted to the right. However, it's puzzling that they are both
aimed toward the right and both about the same angle. If you have no other
suggestions I might just consider dropping the rear sub frame assembly out
and put another one in from a wrecking yard. The other alternative would be
to make a jig that would mount solidly on the hub with a long lever attached
and bend the unit back straight. I'm not sure just what sort of stress that
would put on the bearing itself but it sure isn't right the way it sits now.
Wow... straight frame and axle twisting toward the right? Do you know anyone
in Body Shop business? If you do, have them give you some advice what may
happened... I know the body shop can twist it back true for you... You
really needs heavy duty hydraulic ram to straighten it out.
I can only think of possibility that someone drove the car into the curb...
that kinda knocks the wheel off at an angle... more like someone drove too
fast backward at an angle so the end result was twist to the right.
I agree Tiger. Still puzzling how both wheels are out about the same! Tks
for advice. Will try to see what can be done. Was told by people at MB that
only solution was to replace the carriers. That's more than the car's worth
despite only 117k miles.
You can never be sure of anything these days, Tiger. However, the car is in
the best shape I've ever seen a 240D of this vintage with the exception of
the rear wheel alignment. I did replace the clutch, pressure plate, TO
bearing and I do change the oil, filter, fuel filter every 2,500 miles. It
doesn't use a drop of oil but I did have to replace the radiator
(aftermarket for $152!) which I'm sure has more to do with time rather than
total miles driven. I RTV'd the valve cover to rid myself of a small oil
leak (only one located so far). I really like this car and it starts as
quickly as a gas engine and has lots of pep (for a diesel). Incidentally,
the vacuum system apparently has some minor leaks and I'm wondering if
that's more a consideration of the age of the vacuum diaphram operators
throughout the car? Any good way to systematically run down these problems.
I saw a "manual" advertised on eBay by a fellow who has several different
"manuals" available for MB but don't know if that's the smart way to go. Any
I have the MB manual for your W123... Rubber ages so eventually they must be
replaced. As for the rubber diaphragms... mityvac is the only way to test
them... just be careful not to exert too much vacuum... you want to see if
it holds the vacuum well.
I have the factory manuals for the W123. I'm just wondering if there is a
simpler 1, 2, 3, etc. process that walks one through the process? I can
probably use the manual itself and do the trouble shooting but was wondering
if there is a simple way to isolate certain sections of the system. Any help
appreciated. Incidentally, thanks a million Tiger for your help on that
frame check. It worked great and was simple to do. As an engineer I should
have thought of that early on.
My main source for parts is now:
The best prices I seen on internet and great service. Lower control arm...
means springs must be compressed... means you need internal spring
compressor... you can rent a set from Performance Products.
I have wrote extensively about spring compressor so you should check the
archive. This job is dangerous and you need the proper INTERNAL spring
compressor. (Do NOT use strut spring compressors)
I have a pretty extensive machine shop in my garage. Is this something
that's terribly difficult to make? I've seen the pics in my service manual
and it looks like a 5/8 to 3/4 full thread rod with proper ends might do the
same job. Any idea why this might be too dangerous? Also, any idea what it
might cost to rent a spring compressor from Performance Products? As you can
tell I try to reduce the outlay if possible.
I have used that spring compressor from Performance Products... the tool is
made by Sir Tool... For some reason, the one I got... even though was new...
was defective... too much play in the thread that it slips past each
other... releasing the spring tension.... and yes I was injured...
The good thing is that I wasn't injured badly as it could have been. You can
use domestic internal spring compressor but you will need to add spacer as
the threaded rod is too long.
This equipment is super heavy duty so it is not something common folks can
make themself... maybe you can. All you have to understand is how much
tension force that the spring will hold when compressed... and that is quite
According to my manual you should compress the spring with the weight of the
car resting on the wheel on top of a jack. That would help compress the
spring a little and, hopefully, when the wheel is lowered the spring would
remain compressed and removal made much easier. Am I missing something?
Using the car's weight to compress the spring for you makes the job a little
bit easier... but alot more hassle...
For example... first you need to be able to access the spring so you can set
the spring compressor in there... a pain in the ass with the wheel in
place... then lower the car to compress the spring and then tighten up the
spring compressor... then you got to jack up the car... take the wheel off
so you can take the spring out... need I go on?
You can save yourself a step of two with a safety jack on the lower control
arm instead of wheel installed...
Logistical problem... you'll see when you start to work on it...
Thanks Tiger. Incidentally, found the lower control arm bushing kit at
Drivewire on the internet for $23.54 including tax! Bought some fuel filters
to get the total over $50 for free shipping. I'm in S. Calif and the filters
arrived the next day. However, the kit was out of stock but (hopefully)
coming. Will let you know how the installation goes.
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