Bike Clutches question.

Bike clutches are very smooth and operate (lock up solidly) right at the end of the lever travel. You want about the sme travel in total as the clutch lever gives you. It will start to engage about half way and will slip even with a light touch.

The other thing is that the clutch may benefit from stronger springs or diaphram (or two) in a car and it wont matter because legs are stronger than hands.

From memory it's usually about halfway to two thirds let out.

A bike clutch is a 2 finger operation, some are even 1 finger, you won't feel anything with a booted foot. (I know some girls drive barefoot but they are mad)

At least one car firm that puts bike engines in cars using foot operation modifies the clutch leverage ratio to give feel.

others also have some sort of unspecified mod "Hayabusa Clutch Mods and Hydraulic system" HD springs I see - gives foot something to work against and betterclamping when engaged but won't save it from burning if you slip ittoo much. Once rolling"TrickShifter Clutchless Gear Change System" Sorry I can't be more help but yes you do need to do something.

You still need the full movement because the extra slack prevents clutch drag on multiplate wet clutches. Just give it the same amount of total movement as stock. And fit bigger clutch springs. Trying to make it more "controllable" will encourage more slippage as you release it and wear it out faster especially as the car is heavier than the bike.

Bike clutches actually dont so much wear as overheat and a) distort the metal driven plates b) turn the oil black and burn the linings away all at once very suddenly.

Have fun!

My wish is to have the full stroke of the pedal equating to the full stroke of the clutch lever. So many people I know end up using the wrong master cylinders and the clutch operates over a fraction of the travel.

If I end up wanting the pedal heavier, I will fit an assister spring to the pedal.

This is all on the basis that I don't end up going for a two pedal box. If, as I intend, I end up with a trickshifter, I could use a hand clutch. If the clutch is only used to get off the line and otherwise redundant, it would benefit me to have that space in the pedal box.

Like this guy.

Left pedal = brakes. Hand clutch He also has a 1400cc Hayabusa which makes rather more power than my engine...

Love the footwork. And the speed. Seems like a nice bloke too.

I was going to go to that event but they wanted £10 to get in so I walked off in disgust.

Quite right too.

Also love the footwork. Very scared of the speed.

Bob Sherunckle wibbled...

You don't say?!!

Depends if its a hydraulic clutch or a cable operated one.

Cable : 2/3rds ish

Hydraulic, like wot you have : 1/2ths to 9/10ths depending on the bike.

From memory my old ZZR1100 started biting at 2/3rds, was fully engaged at

4/5ths or less.

They should all be smooth though. The amount of movement from "starting to bike to fully engaged" might be a very small smount of movement, which might make it seem jerky.

I were joking -honest.

Thanks for that.

I'm not a regular in any way over on the bike forums and didn't want to be rude and butt in with a question only to dissapear again.

Cheers

JF