HELP! A series timing info for ECU back to Standard

Jun 07, 2006 6 Replies

Hi,



Has anyone ever converted a late 1.3SPi 1275 Mini engine to normally aspirated with electronic ignition? I have just fitted a modern A series with HIF44, K&N air filter, LCB and



2" exhaust. It has the dizzy replaced with a Metro 42664A distributor (the one with the electronic ignition module on it's side). However I would like to know what the timing point for this setup is. The Haynes manual says 13 degrees for a 1275. The Rover manual for the (non SPi version of this) engine says 5 Degrees! It can't pull the skin off a rice pud @ 5 degrees and seems much better at 13, but not 'full of urgency' like I expected. If anyone has either done this conversion successfully or has some genuine figures I would be very grateful!

In anticipation....Dave


You mention "normally aspirated" and later mention the non-SPi version. By non-SPi version are you referring to the carb'd version? And is that what you're trying to do - convert it back to carbs? Because "normally aspirated" refers to the fact that it's not turbocharged.

OK maybe I'm not fully aware of the terminology but the engine was Single Point injection and now it's NOT, it's got an HIF44 with K&N, LCB and 2" exhaust. The distributor is off a Metro and has the number 42664A stamped on it. However reading my Rover workshop manual for my 'P reg' Mini Cooper it seems there was a non injected version with the timing... (vacuum pipe removed) of 5 degrees. As I said 5 degrees was pathetic and I set it to the 13 degrees mentioned in the Haynes manual for a 1275 A series which is much better. I still have to coax it when accelerating (rather than flooring it)and wonder if the advance curve for this dizzy is wrong for the engine? I could just keep advancing it a bit at a time till light 'pinking' it observed? But was hoping for some words of wisdom.

Thanks....Dave

AstraVanMan wrote:

I used to run my 1275 A+ at about 12 degrees - it was set at about 5 when I got it, but was very hesitant. It ran much better at 12. I also had problems with the vacuum advance - the advance curve was completely wrong for engine (standard dizzy), so much so that I ended up setting it to be right at about 4000rpm and disconnected the vac. advance, and at anything above about 1200rpm it ran better than with the advance. I looked at getting a dizzy with a custom advance made, but it was too expensive for me at the time (~£300 IIRC - it's about 8 years ago..)

Get a custom dizzy built up using a rolling road.

What the hell for?

Electronic fuelling and mapped ignition is faaaaaaaaaar in front of clockwork and carb.

What needle and jet do you have in the 44, sounds like the carb isnt right for starters. Under full throttle the vac advance does nothing!

Tim..

Google "Megajolt", home-made, distibuter-less, programmable 3d ignition controller that's cheaper than a custom dizzy.

Join the Discussion

Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.

Didn't find your answer?

Ask the community — no account required