Hi all,
I posted something similar a few days ago on alt.autos.4x4.chevy-trucks, but under a more generic subject line...so I figured I'd repost here where there's more traffic.
Basically, here's the details: Months ago, I came home from work and immediately went about changing the jets in my Edelbrock carb to lean it out. The engine was hot, and when I had it (almost) back together I tried to start it. Well, the fuel line hadn't been reconnected to the carb (oops), so cranking the motor just shot gas all over the hot engine and started a fire. Months (and a replacement wiring harness) later, I really need to get the truck started THIS week. I'm moving in
2 weeks, and will no longer be within walking distance to work.Truck is a 1986 K5 Blazer, 4x4, 350ci with an Edelbrock 600cfm (elec. choke, vac. secondaries). I installed the new harness and I believe I have everything necessary connected. I don't have the AC compressor's power wires connected...
The HEI distributor took quite a hit in the fire, and most of it was replaced. It uses/used the 5-pin ignition module that connected to a very basic ECM of sorts--the ESC (elec. spark control) module, which retards spark based on input from a knock sensor. Being that the harness that connected the module to the ESC was shot after the fire, I made a new one. I installed a new ignition module and new condensor. Truck won't start. I *think* I'm getting fire to the plugs. I installed an aftermarket tach that I'd bought, and connected it to the "tach" connection on the HEI. When I turned the engine over, it does its thing and jumps up to about 1000rpm.
When that didn't work, I questioned the integrity of my home-made harness to connect the ESC to the ignition module. I had a spare (brand new) 4-pin module on hand, so I eliminated the ESC althogether. I removed the plastic shell of the pass-thru connector that ran between the 3-pin side of the module and the ESC connector, and serves as the connection to the pickup coil. With the metal connections exposed, I pushed them onto the 4-pin module, and essential converted the HEI to the earlier style, 4-pin module (sans ESC).
Following me so far?
There was no difference when I tried to start it. I will add that I had accidentally forgot to connect the condensor to the ignition coil the first time around. After replacing some parts and connecting it properly, it SOUNDS different, like it's trying to start, whereas before the coil was in the circuit, it just turned over, with a consistent sound.
While trying to start it, heavy fumes are coming out the tailpipe, so I know it's getting gas.
Also...the fire was on the back of the engine and firewall (ironically enough). The HEI's cap was melted, among other things. That's mainly due to the fact that the fuel line was laid aside and pointed back toward the firewall when I tried to crank it.
Could the fire have damaged the carb in some way? Granted, the last time it ran, I turned it off and swapped the jets in the carb, so maybe I should try putting them back to stock first.
Can someone please advise me on testing the HEI? I can't imagine that the pickup coil was damaged. There weren't any blackened parts underneath the rotor when I pulled the distributor--so I don't think it necessarily saw any more heat than it would during normal use. I cleaned it out with a non-conductive cleaner used for alternators and electric motors. The ignition coil and pickup coil are the only two pieces that were not replaced.
I feel confident that I properly aligned the HEI when I reinstalled it. I had marked the pickup coil's inner and outer pieces with bright nail polish before removing it. I didn't see anythign weird about the distributor gear that would indicate that it had to be connected to the cam in a specific way (I've heard of distributor having to be aligned exactly or else they wouldn't seat). It seats well and it obviously turning, as I've had the cap off several times and it's always pointed in a different direction.
Please help!
Thanks,
~jp