The A/C on my 97 V6 stopped working. I did a search on this topic and one guy suggested it might be the compressor clutch coil. Where is the clutch coil and is it easy to replace myself? I'm assuming this may be my problem if I'm getting 12V to the compressor.
97 A/C not working
Jul 04, 2005
16 Replies
The clutch is pretty simple. I had to do it and the relay module not too long ago. It's about $100 at Discount. It bolts right onto the compressor, it's black and there's a small gap between it and the pulley. The way that it works is that 12 volts are applied to it, causing it to magnetize and clamp to the pulley (you may have heard it when you first start the car for a number of years) which causes the compressor to turn. Mine shorted out somehow, and took the relay out with it. I seem to recall that I used my hanes manual to get the run-down on replacing it. I think it was just three screws once the belt was off, but again it was some time ago.
OK, here is some more info on the problem: The car actually belongs to my brother-in-law. He told me 2 different mechanics told him he has enough freon,the pressure is good, so they told him it might be something electrical since the compressor is not turning on. So I went to do a voltage reading on the compressor and it's not getting voltage. So now I figure it might be a bad pressure switch so I attempted to jump it, but there are 3 wires going to the pressure switch, red, black and maybe pink? I was not sure which ones to jump. I tried the black and red, but that caused a spark. So I tried jumping the others, but the compressor still did not turn on. Anyway I double checked the fuses and they are good. Does anyone have any troubleshooting tips? Where do I start?
Sounds like it could be the relay module. If that's the case, have the clutch tested by before you replace it or the new one could blow too.
Where is the relay module and how do I test the clutch?
put 12 volts to clutch see if it licks in put a test lite at plug does it lite ya stupid foctard
h u r c a s t
I suspect that it may be the A/C cycling switch. This switch is located on top of the suction accumulator/drier. (passenger side at the firewall). This is the servicing procedure:
A/C Cycling Switch Removal
- Disconnect the wire harness connector from the A/C cycling switch (19E561).
- Unscrew the A/C cycling switch from the top of the suction accumulator/drier (19C836).
Installation
- Lubricate the O-ring seal on the suction accumulator/drier nipple with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.
- Screw the A/C cycling switch on the suction accumulator/drier nipple and hand-tighten.
- Connect the wire connector to the A/C cycling switch.
- Check the A/C cycling switch installation for refrigerant leaks.
- Check the system for proper operation.
Mine died this past spring and I had originally thought that it was the A/C compressor clutch. The A/C cycling switch is an easy and cheap fix.
Richard
'94 GT 'vert Under Drive Pulleys Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit High Stall Torque Converter
4:10 Gears Gripp Sub Frame Connectors (welded) FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft FRPP M5400-A Suspension Laser Red
Read my second post again. I said I was not getting 12V at the compressor.
Rich, I suspected that may be the problem too, but is there a way I can jump it for a second or to two to see if the compressor kicks on? As I said in my previous post there are 3 wires going to the switch, so I'm not sure which ones to jump. Also, I'm not sure if you have to evacuate the system when replacing the switch.
You do not have to evacuate the system. The instructions I gave are from Ford's service manual. My valve was sticking and a light tap would sometimes allow the circuit to close and thus engage the compressor clutch. .
snipped-for-privacy@optonline.net wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:
the switch is on a port with a schrader valve... no evac necessary.
MAKE SURE the new O-Ring with the switch is as thick as the old one.
Better yet just leave the old one there, no worth taking a chance on scratching the seating area.
That was also my plan but the old one split when I went to put it on the new switch. Picked up a new one at my Ford parts department ($0.50) and had them have the shop coat it in refrigerant lubricant for me.(brought my own ziploc bag)
Ok, I'll tell my brother -in-law to give it a couple of whacks. Hopefully that will solve the problem. I'll keep you posted.
Did you fix this?
I am not the original person that posted the problem with the A/C but I was having the same problem with a 94 Mustang. I jumped the connector to the cyclic switch and confirmed that there was power, then I removed the switch, tapped it on the garage floor a few times, put it back on and now have nice cold air.
Thanks for the info, it worked for me!
I am going to see my Brother-in law again today. I'll let you know if it works.
Well, we tried to tap it, and it did't work. So now we have to investigate further. Could be in the climate control unit inside.Thanks for everyones help.
Join the Discussion
Have something to add? Share your thoughts — no account required.
Didn't find your answer?
Ask the community — no account required