Big Problem.........Spark Plug removal

On the big block Chevy:

We use N-6 or N-65 sometimes 4-7 at the end of the season. We only use them once and trash them, because they are the best plug to get a good reading, when you jet the car between each pass.

The clean nickle plating down to the base of the center porcealin, and the whitest of all porcealins makes them the easiest to read. We also cut the outter electrode with a cutoff tool, then file for an .080 gapso there is good spark propogation, and hence good flame propopgation. Whe remove the heads and disassemble the moror every twenty runs, and look at how the flame travel went, and look if any improvement can be made.

Also, check the bearings with a snap gauge in 8 locarions, and mic the crank in 8 locations.

Refinish King

I have heard stories like that as well, more from the airplane crowd than from the car crowd, though I have never known anyone personally who could either confirm or deny them... I don't use Champion plugs as it is, so I never worried about the stories much. But regardless of whether or not their plugs suck, I don't think it's a direct reflection in any way on their anti-seize compound. I originally read about the stuff in one of Carroll Smith's books and decided to give it a whirl for its intended application... seems to work well, plus I find it much easier to work with. It's very thin, and comes with a tiny little brush in the cap for applying the stuff so it doesn't get all over the place (I don't know about you, but I can't manage to go anywhere near a bottle of regular anti-seize without it migrating under every single one of my fingernails). It seems like it's pretty much just finely powdered graphite in a liquid carrier of some kind. No heavy grease to act as a dielectric, no mess, and it seems to work just fine. I've been pleased with it so far. Different strokes for different folks, I guess. I just figured that since it's an anti-seize compound made specifically for spark plugs, and since it isn't the greasy metallic goo everyone thinks of when they hear "anti-seize" that perhaps it'd sit better with the naysayers.

This sounds like a good idea.. Might prep it also with penetrating oil for a day (use compressed air first to clean out the hole, then fill the hole with the oil and let it sit for a day I say)

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Ditto all the below... I never heard of anything BUT the traditional aluminum (I guess) anti-seize.. I bought a small tube of Permatex brand about 20 years ago and use it on anything automotive that I even THINK I might have to wrench again.. and I only bought THAT after the tube I stole from my dad ran out.. I had been using out of it since the 60's while still on a farm.

So, from a casual user, that's 40 years for two tubes.. and I still have about 30% of the latter one left.

I reckon that it has probably saved me over $1000 bucks a least, not counting busted knuckles and brain hemorrhages due to do-it-yourself rages.

Again... if you hear it from a "Professional", make sure you get a third opinion after the second. I have learned this the hard way, which is why I do all my own plumbing, furnace, and A/C work as well as most automotive work.

Refinish King opined in news:MSKbc.3278$ snipped-for-privacy@fe03.usenetserver.com:

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