breaking in a new 4.6L DOHC

in my new mach 1. debate on engine break-in has no doubt been beat to death not only in usenet but by shade-tree and expert mechanics alike. here's what i've adopted over the years, but have never had a performance engine like this. i just want to make sure that i'm not overlooking any really important issues that may apply to an engine like this and that's not too important in a four banger. here's what i usually do:

i've been told recently that the adage of keeping her under 55mph for the first 500 miles doesn't really matter any more. so while i might exceed

55mph for brief periods of time, i'm not getting crazy with her.

at 500 miles. change the oil. a new engine, it is reckoned, might have small burrs of metal that are likely to dislodge and float around in your oil. this, it is argued, gets rid of it. i secretly wonder, though, if any `damage' is already done at 500 miles. nontheless, it's a ritual i have stuck with.

my engine calls for 20w50, and i would use a dino-based one.

then at 2,500 miles change the oil again, using the same dino-based 20w50.

at 5,000 miles, i switch to a full synthetic, usually Castrol Syntec -- although in this case, i will likely use Amsoil or one of the other high-performance full synthetics.

change the oil at 5,000 mile intervals.

sound reasonable?

PS - not trying to bring on a debate about dino-based oil vs. synthetic. sorry if this seems troll-ish; it's not meant to be :-)

Reply to
bitbucket
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Not trollish, but a lot of people don't consider Castrol syntec a "good" synthetic at all.

-Mike

Reply to
<memset

According to Amsoil literature, Penzoil synthetic came second in tests. All the rest, including Moble-1 were behind in quality or ability to prevent wear.

-Rich

Reply to
Richard

I;ve heard the castrol synthetic made in Europe is actually one of the best. (BMW advises this for their M3 in Europe) The Castrol stuff made in the US is not so good. I'd go Mobil-1if you need to use synthetic. What engine/car is this anyways (20W50 ??)

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Reply to
Rein

That's a reasonable break-in method. *The* most important thing is to not spend very much time at any one speed. That's what causes premauture wear patterns to set in. Vary the speed often, especially with freeway driving. It really isn't bad to drive the car hard or to redline, just don't keep the rpms set for many miles at a time.

The 500 mile change is a decent idea. I think the modern manufacturing processes eliminate much of the excess machining materials but it can't hurt. As for synthetic, the current materials in the motor don't require the dino oil setup like older motors did. Many modern motors come with synth right off the factory floor and there's really no reason any more to run dino first. I know a bunch of folks who went synth on their modular motor at day one and haven't looked back and have no issues. I went synth at that 500 mile change and I've got 21000 on the clock with no indication of any issues. That's too short to detect any long term stuff but I also know several earlier Cobras that have been running synth from "0"/500 to

100,000+, and those motors are running well. The factory dino oil is for cost reduction, it's not a requirement for any of the break-in processes.

Now, it can't hurt to run dino for an extended period, but there's nothing that I know of to indicate that it will help either.

Reply to
Dan

Reply to
Michael Seeley

On Tue, 06 Jul 2004 02:45:06 GMT, Michael Seeley wrote: | I think the new ones call for 5W-20

yea -- you're right. i knew that, but for some reason wrote 20w50. my bad.

Reply to
bitbucket

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