distributor setting

So you changed your plug wires? Define "skip".

What CJ said... plus #1 is always the right (passenger side) on a Ford. Is that TDC on compression or TDC on overlap? Did you buy parts because they are cheap, the flavour of the day or known good quality?

If all else fails... what CJ said.

Do you have a service manual of some kind? A chiltons will usually do fine. What you're looking for is a picture of the engine and distributor in the "Ignition" section of the book. Fortunately for guys like me, the picture shows you exactly which cylinder has which number, and will also show you the correct firing order and distributor rotation. Use that picture and find plug wire #1. Then follow the diagram around and make sure the firing order is correct. I believe it is 15426378.

Once you do that, if you discover that the wires are not in the correct order, simply move them around until they are. If you find that the rotor is pointing in the wrong direction, simply move the wires around on the cap until it's correct. You don't really need to R&R the distributor. In fact, in an old car, I wouldn't recommend it unless you absolutely have to; to many chances for something to go wrong. But be sure that the #1 cyl is at TDC on the compression stroke before moving things around.

As for the "skip", what does that mean, exactly? Did you change points and condenser?

first the skip I refer to is idling dont notice it, when in drive and start going off and on sounds like motor burps or something. like its in the firing. I set to top dead center by removing spark plug and putting in finger till it gets forced out by pressure. Is there a better way without right equiptment. When I did this on passanger side the rotor was pointing to #5 plug wire. This is wrong I imagine. The Chilton I have has the firing order but no pics. bobc, are you saying I should take the 1 wire and put it where the 5 is and so on in the order of 15426378 and what direction should I go on dist. to right clockwise or left counter clockwise?

Cute. really cute. if you r34lly n33d something, you make it easy for the folks helping you. If you want to be a dick, you can make it hard and get ignored. Been doing this for nearly 40 years..... I may not be the sharpest pencil in the boxbut I do have a good memory (and an active kill file).

not sure what your referring to but I said what it is doing and no parts wernt bought because they were cheap in fact Im putting the best on for your info. Wouldnt make sense to put crap on a classic! If you want to talk to someone like a dick then best for you to talk to them who want to be and Im not one of them. If your referring to the compression and overlap well Im not a machanic like you so no I dont know what you are referring to. Guess Im not as smart as you!

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 00:49:25 -0500, runnininmy70stang rearranged some electrons to form:

Uh, he wasn't talking to you. Obviously you are new to Usenet, aren't you?

Welcome to Usenet and RAMFM! Just hang around a while and you'll figure things out for the most part.

You never answered CJ. Did you put a new set of spark plug wires on it?

Would a hiccup be a better description? Or does it sound like a lapse of sound with a decrease in RPM followed by an increase in RPM?

I'm not an experienced mechanic like Jim, who is a professional, or CJ, who is self-taught (I think), but it'd probably be worth while to detail out what all you have done to the car/engine.

As David M. said, Jim was talking to Mark, who made a funny. Jim takes his profession and his advice seriously, as he should, and he "flamed" Mark. Hang around, you'll figure it out.

I believe he was talking to Mark C.

-Mike

-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch

yup new, Who then was he talking to?

got ya Ill get it sooner or later. That did get me little confused.

Yes, that's correct. The engine doesn't really car where the distributor is clocked to, as long as it's sending fire to the correct cylinder at the correct time. Based on your description, your timing could be off by as much as 45*. That's a lot, but it will still run (poorly). To be sure, place a timing gun on the engine and see where it's at exactly, then you don't have to guess.

As for the miss, lot's of things can cause that. Timing is on the top of the list. So once the timing is correct, don't get discouraged if the miss is still there. I had a similar problem on a 302 a few years back. I messed with the ignition for a while, because I was sure it was the problem. Eventually, I found a small piece of crud stuck in one of the main jets. Not enough to plug it, but just enough to cause it to stumble.

wires are new. 8mm yellow. coil new, condensor and point, all is new. carb is even new. I think that the wires when bought are on wrong post. when pressure took finger out of 1 the rotor was pointing to 5. Would I have to move all plugs to the left counter clockwise, so that 1 is being pointed to?

Im sticking around. Dont need a mechanic locally that says #1 is driver side working on my car. Id rather do it al my self. Eventually Ill have a stroker motor.

what is the best way to set it at top dead center with out right equiptment. Can I Take out 1 plug and turn fan till its set or the finger thing?

what is the best way to set it at top dead center with out right equiptment. Can I Take out 1 plug and turn fan till its set or the finger thing?

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 13:59:28 -0500, runnininmy70stang rearranged some electrons to form:

#1 is the front passenger side.

On Sat, 19 Feb 2005 13:53:18 -0500, runnininmy70stang rearranged some electrons to form:

You need to set your newsreader to a "threaded view". Then you can see who is replying to who.

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