Reinstalling Pushrods On 72 351c *Torquing*

Hello. I have just finished replacing the head gaskets on my 72 Torino with a

351c. I am at the point of replacing the pushrods and need to know if I am going to do it correct. Info tells me I have hydraulic lifters and that they will expand when not under load and in order to get the proper torque I have been told to follow this guideline. Turn engine so #1 is at TDC as shown on the damper as TDC or 0. Torque to 20 ft lbs 1,4 and 8 intake 1,3 and 7 exhaust. Rotate crank 180 and torque 3 and 7 intake and 2 and 6 exhaust. Rotate the crank to 270 from TDC and torque 2,5 and 6 intake and 4,5 and 8 exhaust. Second question. Is using the timing mark of TDC or TC on the crank my way of knowing for certain number one is at TDC? Final. My book says the cylinder numbers on the 351c is 1234 front to back left side (pass side) looking at engine and 5678 right side (driver side). Sorry about the questions but I want to do this the right way the first time. Dont want any bent pushrods! I did this on a similer 72 ford but that was 20 plus years ago. Its just me, the engine and a book. So any help from all of you would be great. Thanks again. Greg

A hydraulic lifter is like a cup with a spring inside and a plunger on top of that, all held in place with a C-clip. The idea is to get the plunger centered in the bore with the lifter sitting on the base circle of the cam.

Turn engine so #1 is at TDC as shown on the

With the valve covers off, you don't need to rely on the timing pointer. Just watch the lifters or rockers on #1 as you rotate the engine. As the intake lifter sinks to its lowest point, that's TDC. So now you can set both the intake and exhaust.

Torque to 20 ft lbs 1,4 and 8 intake 1,3 and 7 exhaust.

I don't know if that's the right order. I followed the order Tom Monroe's book "How to Rebuild Ford V8's" said to follow. You should own this book. Mustangs Plus (

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and other vendors have it. If you really want to obsess on this, you should gauge how far down the plunger is in the lifter, with the rocker tightened down. I don't recall the exact number, but I made a feeler gauge out of a cotter pin to check it. Using a vise and hammer I bent a slight "L" shape into the end of the cotter pin, then ground this little "L" leg down to the correct thickness. It was something like .125". The Monroe book will tell you the right number. For those lifters with too much clearance, I shimmed the rocker pedestal with shims that Crane makes for this very purpose, in .030 and .060 thicknesses. I got them from Summitracing.com. The reason you have to check this and shim as needed is because valve rescession from unleaded fuel will push the plunger too far down in the lifter.

Second

That's how Ford numbers its cylinders. GM goes driver side, passenger side, etc., from front to rear.

Sorry about the questions but I want to do this the