Just wanted to get an opinion from some experts... I've been driving my other baby, an '04 Nissan 350Z alot lately, and the handling in my mustang just seems sloppy in comparisson. I was thinking of throwing on some new springs to maybe improve the feel a bit...
Anyone have any thoughts/suggestions? Keep in mind that with two sports car payments, I'm kinda on a budget.
Didn't say waht car you have, but in addition fo the "Bullit" kit, I'd get subframe connectors. It is the only thing I have on my car right now (suspension-wise) & it made an enormous difference.
-Mike
-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch
Google provides the answer as usual... seems to list for $119 from steeda, but requires welding?? I guess its not a weekend project for me... how much does it run to throw these things on?
Oh, and what exactly changes as far as the handling?
I got billed $50 to have them installed. Although... I'm getting fairly proficient with welding myself! Take it to a muffler shop & tell them you'll give 'em $50 to get 'em installed.
-Mike
-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch
Whoa! That could be a big mistake (muffler shop?) The car had better be resting on it's own wheels when the subs are welded.
Here's a link to a photo of one of the subframes being welded on.
formatting link
and the finished job
formatting link
The suspension package in the link is, I believe, the FMS M-5400A performance handling package. Installed on my '94 just 1 month before I garaged her for the winter so I didn't have the opportunity to really experiment. However, I do like what I did feel.
Richard he listed the one for the V6... it's not the same as for GT's. Hence quotes. Anyway... yes, make sure the suspension is loaded when the subframe CONNECTORS are welded. My favorite muffler shop did this... the drive-on type of lift... not the kind that you slide the "arms" under the car.
-Mike
-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch
How does it feel? Well, you will differently notice an improvement when corning at speed. If there is any lateral roll I do not feel it. Now bear in mind that I am focused on the driving when entering a tight curve well above the posted (suggested) speed. The car just seems to steer and track better and generally feels more responsive to my driving input. A former contributor to this newsgroup summed it up this way,"... crisp handling and excellent road manners."
Richard
'94 GT 'vert Under Drive Pulleys Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit High Stall Torque Converter
4:10 Gears Gripp Sub Frame Connectors (welded) FRPP Aluminum Drive shaft FRPP M5400-A Suspension Laser Red
Gotcha... I was looking at the URL & didn't even catch the V8 in the page.
-Mike
-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch
I'll go along with Richard. The car desparately need s to be in it's natural state when welding or attaching sub frame connectors. Using a frma contact hoist will introduce an unwanted "set" to the bars. I would also consider adding what used to be called the "export" bar... connects the shock towers to the firewall (excuse me if I look like a dinosaur.... it's only because I are one). Anything we can do to stiffen the base platform is good.
Even moreso, the car feels like a single, solid unit rather than the tail following the front. Going over bumps and things like railroad tracks, the car feels like it's got a real frame. Completely solid.
If you want to completely change the car's dynamics for the better, get the g-load brace and strut tower brace as well. Those braces combined with subframe connectors will make the car feel like it's on rails. Handling will be 1000% better. I know this from experience.
Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Dakota 5.9 R/T CC
"Richard" wrote in news:NkDNd.306879$Xk.81969@pd7tw3no:
It's certainly more than $100 worth of braces. I'm not up on current prices, but a pair of decent subframe connectors, a g-load brace, and a strut tower brace would probably be somewhere in the neighborhood of around $300-$400, maybe higher. Tack on another $100 or so (at least) for installation.
And yes, those things _do_ make a world of difference.
I'd guess that they don't come stock because (a) the car is ok without them, and (b) they'd add too much to the price. If I were Ford, I'd have offered them as an option.
BTW, I'm not sure what year you have (didn't get a chance to see the prior posts) - I'm referring to the Fox cars. I believe the SN95 cars have the strut brace, and maybe the g-load brace.
Joe Calypso Green '93 5.0 LX AOD hatch with a few goodies Black '03 Daktota 5.9 R/T CC
"japhar81" wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@giganews.com:
No strut tower braces from factory after 95 or 96.. I forget =(.
-Mike
-- A happy kid behind the wheel of a 98 Mustang GT Cold air intake FRPP 3.73 gears Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Flowmaster 40 Series mufflers (self-installed woohoo) Hi-speed fan switch
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.