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Doing brake job with ABS

Almost too foolish to respond to, but here goes: Generally all you need to do is replace the seals. If the cyl's need honing, then you probably have dirt in them and the lines. If the cyl's need honing, then they will be leaking soon. If the cyl's need honing, then you'd have to be just a bit foolish to leave them on the car without doing the work. (You can say "Doh!" now).

Also, if you remove the wheel cyl's and do the flush/bleeding at 50K miles, they'll come off at 100K and you can do them again. Apparently you've always left the job for 100k miles when everything is stuck and the cyl's have to be scrapped.

Apparently not.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob
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O.K Here is the deal.

If the brake job is done correctly no bleeding will be needed.

The deal with ABS systems is, debris/dirt etc. that usually resides in the caliper can be pushed up stream when bottoming out the caliper piston.This procedure could cause the crap to make it all the way up to the ABS servo.

Once the crap gets into the servo all kinds of problems can occur

The correct way to do brakes on an ABS system is to open up the bleeder before bottoming out the piston, once the piston is down close the bleeder and install the new pads and that's it, it's pretty simple.

the above pretty much holds true for non ABS systems too

Reply to
NissTech

Dude:

Some folks here are arguing against even flushing the fluid on a tri-annual basis! They don't even want to crack the bleeders because they might have to - shock - bleed the brakes!

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Hi Edward -

Factory service manual brake fluid replacement intervals

Honda - 95 and older, 27 months; 96 and newer, 39 months (all models) BMW - 2 years (all models) Subaru - 30K miles (WRX is only one I have seen manual for) Porsche - 30k km (all models) Benz - 24 months (all models) Ford (german) - 24 months (all models) Toyota - 3 to 4 years (recommended) Nissan - 24 months

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- every 12 months in high humdity or mountainous areas

I know that American car engineers will say something, but they also okayed Pinto gas tanks because it was an economic decision - Why is it that these car manufacturers (some with warantee implications) do this? In addition, I think you need to be wary of your automobile insurance, as many policies have waivers of coverage for brake service related failures.

Andrew

Edward Strauss wrote:

Reply to
Andrew Paule

You do not have calipers and wheel cylinders on the same axle/mounting plate.

Nope, put the pads in and drive.

Finally, you come up with more than opinion. If the OP has one of these he should do what is required. I say inspect put the pads in and ride.

Reply to
Edward Strauss

Thanks for the factual information. The OP should do what is required of the vechicle that he owns. A visible inspection is also required and if all looks good then the pads can go in. All this should be taken with a grain of common sense. There is probably some requirement around about when the seat belts should be replaced, probably right before you flush the air in the tires...

Reply to
Edward Strauss

Very professional.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Nice detour around the fact that manufacturers _do_ recommend flushing the system - in contrast to your seat of the pants guess.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Like you though, I do remove the wheel cylinders after I take the calipers off... I also get the subframe checked for cracks, grease the steering wheel, and, run a wirebrush through the complete exhaust system. That and allowing me to proclaim this on the Internet makes me really feel good. I'm leaving to go out of town now. I hope you keep this nonsense going until I get back.

Reply to
Edward Strauss

"'nuther Bob" wrote

About the same amount of professionalism as "midasizing" an entire brake system.

Ian

Reply to
shiden_kai

snipped-for-privacy@yahoo.com (Martin Lynch) wrote in news: snipped-for-privacy@posting.google.com:

ABS braking system control units are assembled and tested in a certified 'Clean Room' at the manufacturer. I have first-hand knowlege of this. There are clearances within the unit of microns, dirt of any sort can render the unit inoperative.

Reply to
Anthony

Your post says so much about you.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Oh, another "just replace the pads and let it go" sort of guy I see. I hope you have good liability insurance.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Geeeez! Bob and Ed- you guys should get a room or somethin!!!

Give it a rest already.

Reply to
Jake

If you at least inspect it, that's OK for liability. Ed "the other poster" apparently doesn't even do that. Just "install the pads and drive down the road". That's bad news and bad advice to DIY guys who might be listening.

I still say that you should flush the fluid every few years as most

*manufacturers recommend*. There's a reason for it, it's not just for good luck. The time to do that is obviously pad change time when you are (also, hopefully) checking those cyl's for leaks.

I'll also still suggest that the DIY guy who started this thread rebuild the calipers and/or wheel cyls. It's just not that much extra work for qualified DIY guy to do. There's most always dirt in there after 50, 60K miles. Spend $20 on kits and get it out before it starts leaks.

I'll also suggest that if someone isn't qualified to repair the brakes top to bottom then they don't have any business changing pads.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

Ed went back to his room right after the manufacturers specs for flushing brake fluid were posted.

Bob

Reply to
'nuther Bob

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