On Sat, 05 Mar 2005 15:55:56 -0500, no firstname.lastname@example.org wrote:
Well, finally started up the truck again. I checked the timing with a
timing light and it does advance 10 degrees or so when the engine is
revved up. With the engine idling, the timing appears to be at least
10 degrees BTDC. The exhaust only gets red when the engine is revved
up and not just idling. The exhaust is a little rich smelling but does
not have a sulphur smell, just like a rich running carburetor. When
the exhaust glows red, it seems to start at the #4 cylinder and the
small air pipes at the exhaust manifold below the O2 sensor. The
exhaust cools down within a minute or two after returning to idle. The
downpipe does not turn red after 2 or so inches from the exhaust
manifold nor does the convertor and exhaust still comes out the
tailpipe. The ticking noise was there from the first cold startup.
Maybe it is a stuck open/leaking injector? The ticking noise does
sound like a collapsed hydraulic lifter, though. What about the
cam/crank not being in mechanical time?? Cam advanced? Does anyone
have a factory manual with pictures that show the cam/crank sprocket
alignment and the crank damper timing marks? I'm going to pull the
spark plugs and make sure #3 & #4 cylinders are firing and not dumping
raw fuel into the exhaust. Thank, no one.
The distributor is almost at max advance as it is due to the concerns
of it possibly being way retarded. I believe the specs are 4 BTDC but
the truck will not rev up at that setting. Max advance unfortunately
does not aleviate the glowing exhaust. I need to find out what the
notches on the crank pulley represent as far as what notch is TDC. The
Haynes manual does not specifically identify the marks for the '95
2.4L so the cam/crank timing may be way off not the distributor since
the distributor is timed to the oil pump. Thanks, no one.
Do you know if anyone has a factory manual for a '95 2.4L engine that
has a picture of the cam/crank sprocket alignment. Haynes does not
specifically show the '95 year engine. A picture of the crank pulley
with the timing marks would be helpful as well. The distributor only
goes in one way as it is splined with the crank/oil pump. Thanks, no
In order to remove the timing chain cover, you have to remove the oil
pump. The oil pump shaft goes up through the cover and is splined to
the crank by a large brass sleeve then to the distributor mount. The
distributor can go in only one way but the oil pump could be out of
mechanical time except you install the oil pump then install the
distributor checking to see that the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug
terminal. If it is not, you remove the oil pump and move it a tooth or
two as needed. It all goes back to the distributor, oil pump and crank
being in time with each other but the cam is retarded in timing to
them all. I guess it's time to get a real manual and dump the Haynes.
Thanks, no one.
If the oil pump was off by one tooth then the rotor would not point to
the number one spark plug terminal because the distributor is driven
by the oil pump drive. The oil pump drive has a flat spot and the end
of the oil pump drive looks like a "D" so if the distributor is in
time the oil pump is too. If the oil pump is moved back a tooth then
the distributor would be out of time. I'm thinking it's probably an
excessive fuel problem which requires so much advance to keep the
plugs lit. Whenever that ticking noise goes away, the truck runs fine
so I don't think it's a cam timing problem. The compression is higher
now than with the old chain but it still has the ticking noise/glowing
exhaust. Nothing has changed except for the higher compression. Still
ticks, still glows red when revved up. It had a broken off O2 sensor
that was replaced along with the nut that screws into the exhausrt
manifold. Could be the wrong O2 sensor for the engine. I didn't
purchase it but I did install it. Thanks for your ideas, no one.
Please don't talk to me like I'm a DUMB ASS! I;ve rebuilt hundreds if not
thousands of these engines. If you have the distributor at the end of it's
slot to get the timing figure you posted (and to get the truck to run even
decent) you've got it or the cam out of time. PERIOD.
You are totally clueless... Good luck since you refuse to even deal with the
OBVIOUS problem. Too much fuel will NOT cause the problems you are having
(nor will advancing the timing cover up a rich condition in ANY way
whatsoever, it will make it worse..) and will NOT make a manifold glow red,
but since you seem to know so much.... Like I said good luck..
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