I also had a 1994 XE V6 extended cab that had the same problem. the prolem
developed around 50k when I started to hear a knocking noise when I first
started the engine, after the engine warmed up the noise would go away. I had
the bolts replace and did not have any problems with the manifold when I sold
the truck at 70k.
I just replaced all of mine on my 95. The 'improved' studs Nissan gave me were
part number 14065-V5004 and said 300ZX Turbo on the label. Apparently Nissan
doesn't acknowlege the problem and won't fix it if you are unlucky enough to
make it beyond the warranty period before they break (passenger side near the
firewall is usually the first to go), but they are quielty providing an improved
replacement version so it shouldn't happen again.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 03:45:39 -0700, Dave
- The exhaust manifold warps and you have to plane it or replace it.
It's possible that's already happened.
- You fail inspection or get asphyxiated due to an exhaust leak
Neal, just make sure you replace *all* the manifold studs when you do
the job, not just the broken ones. Also check the manifold for
warpage. Have them machined and you'll be good to go.
For the group: yes I finally did the studs on my '95 Pathfinder a few
weeks ago. Terrible way to spend a day and a half but a proper screw
extractor set and a DeWalt right angle drill made the SOOO much
easier. Here's the link for those interested:
Home Depot carries them for around $190.00 so you'll still save a few
hundred on labor doing it yourself and when you're done you have a
nice new tool added to your inventory. ;-) Don't forget some
titanium coated drill bits and the screw extractor set and you're good
I just used my `tricks' I acquired in the few years I worked in the
Nissan shop. :-)
Basically I have a `feel' for this crappy job now. LOL
Seriously though, I soak the guts out of everthing the night before
with Liquid Wrench and use it VERY heavily while I'm removing the nuts
that hold the manifolds on. Sometimes you just get lucky and the
studs will back out with the nuts. That happened on all but one on
the passenger side of mine. Talk about luck!
Once the manifolds were off and the non-broken studs were removed I
used a punch and a small ball peen hammer to heavily `mark' the center
of each broken stud. Make sure your punch has a fine point and it
will give you enough of a `dent' that when you start drilling with a
1/8" titanium drill bit (my preffered choice, but I'm sure cobalt or
something similar would do just as good) you won't wobble off center.
The MAC Screw Extractor set comes with a set of centering devices for
each size drill bit in the case but they are quite cumbersome to use
in close quarters although they do work great. Once you've done your
first couple of studs, you'll get that `feel' for everything.
After the 1/8" bit, I enlarged the hold to 3/16" (I believe that was
the size). Then I used the #2 extractor from the MAC Screw Extractor
kit to remove the stud. When you drill, DO NOT go too far or you
chance going all the way through the stud and into a water jacket.
Should you do this, perhaps some J.B. Weld will save you but it's
better to compare a new stud for length and put some tape on your
drill bit to act as a marker of the maximum depth you want to drill
out. It takes a few extra minutes to do that but then you'll know for
sure you're not going in to far but yet you're going deep enough to
give the MAC extractor an excellent bite. Also, don't forget to keep
back out the drill bit to clean out the hole as you go. You're not
trying to get it all done in one pressing action.
A tip for removing the old stud from the extractor so you can reuse
the MAC extractors:
clamp the unused end of the extractor in a set of vise grips and then
put another set of smaller vise grips loosely on the extractor just
against the broken piece of stud it's holding. Tap against the
smaller vise grips and the old stud piece will pop right off of the
extractor. If the extractor doesn't look to have a `twist' to the
area where the stud piece was, you can resuse it.
On Fri, 18 Jul 2003 22:44:42 GMT, 'nuther Bob
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