Car lurching, then killing

After being parked for several hours, I drove off in my 96 Infiniti I30 (114K), went a few blocks, and the car lurched a few times, then killed (no idiot lights while running). I restarted it, and "lurched" it out of traffic and had it towed home (it was the middle of the night). I don't have a regular mechanic that I know and trust here in Las Vegas, and the next morning I just took the car to an AAA recommended shop, for what that's worth.

The mechanic couldn't duplicate the problem, and said the only code that had come up was the knock sensor code. He said he drove it around for 40 minutes with no trouble. So he replaced the fuel filter and did some "injector/intake TBI" cleaner thing, and said I was good to go.

I picked up the car this afternoon and drove it around for about 5-10 miles of errands, on and off the freeway, with no problems. Parked the car, and then went out for dinner several hours later. Same problem again--car started fine, but began to lurch after about a mile. I limped it back home. This time the engine light came on and stayed on.

So the only pattern I see here, if it means anything, is that both times the problem happened at night--after the car had been sitting for hours. (It's been around 100 degrees here in the daytime lately). When I picked the car up at the shop today, it had been sitting for two days, and it ran fine.

Any ideas (other than maybe looking for another mechanic)?

Reply to
Steve Green
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"the car lurched a few times"

- more details pls

- manual or A/T?

If the problem is engine stutterin & dying intermittently, it may be MAF/Campos sensor dying and/or connector oxidation... Read these pages 14&10

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Reply to
Wiikinki

Thanks for the response. Sorry for the long delay in replying--I've been out-of-state. It's an auto transmission. The lurching happens upon acceleration only. I'm not sure what other details I can provide. I'm taking it back to the mechanic this morning and will mention your suggestion. I'm tempted to spend a day cleaning all the connectors first, though.

sensor dying and/or connector oxidation... Read these pages 14&10

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Reply to
Steve Green

I had posted:

Wiikinki replied:

sensor dying and/or connector oxidation... Read these pages 14&10

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Well, it did turn out to be the MAF sensor (well, the problem hasn't come up again, so it looks that way). Mechanic charged me a total of $900+ to fix---$500+ was just for the part (Nissan OEM); the rest was for labor and for a new anti-knock sensor. I pointed out that the anti-knock sensor has been reported as a known false code--they said "yeah, we know, but it tested bad". So do those charges sound normal or did I get taken? I was pretty shocked at the cost of the MAF.

BTW, it's an A/T. The way it was lurching, I initially suspected the transmission--especially since it only happened when accelerating. Glad I was wrong. :o)

Anyway, thanks again Wiikinki! Great diagnosis from limited information.

Reply to
Steve Green

Yes a brand new Nissan MAF is about 500 bucks and an new knock sensor is another 150 - so 650 in parts and 250 in labor. Assuming a rate of independent shop rate of 80 bucks/hr, thats about 3 hours... probably fair given the time for diagnosis, etc. In anycase, you're back on the road. Enjoy!

Nirav

Reply to
njmodi

Thanks--I _am_ enjoying. Especially since my rental car was a Camry, which drives like a truck compared to the Infiniti. ;o)

This brings another question to mind, though. Here in Vegas, cars tend to heat up in the daytime, and I understand that it can take some time for the A/C to catch up.

That said, recently my car ( again, a '96 Infiniti I30) started taking

10-15 minutes of driving for the air to start blowing really cold--and if I start out stuck in traffic, it doesn't start to get cold till I'm actually driving at a decent speed for a while.

This never used to be a problem even in very hot weather, and wasn't a problem with my recent rental. I've had the system evac'd, recharged, and checked for leaks, but nobody (have been to 3 places, including the dealer) seems to know what the problem is. Any ideas? Is it just because it's a 10-year-old car? (You'd think that fixing A/C in Las Vegas would be pretty basic, no?)

Reply to
Steve Green

...it can take some time for the A/C to catch up. ... Maybe the full cold air-flaps (air-mix-door) dont close all the way? See page below. (jammed adj motor and/or flap mech). (Auto-systems contain the same kind mech as depicted manual systema)

Apart from defective parts, restricted/bad fluid/air flow: Some Nissans have the ret A/C thick hose [8.] insulated, most dont (!?). Addin insulation made significant drop in air temp... from +15C down to---> +8C ...over 60% more kick. (12 degrees F colder)

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Reply to
Wiikinki

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