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Towing with a Manual Transmission

Hello there,

I have a 5 speed 1990 Nissan Maxima GE - running in wonderful condition, everything is working in tip top shape. I had a Class I (2000 lb) trailer hitch onto the chassis of the car.

In about month, I am planning to tow a U-Haul sports trailer (little streamlined thing) or possibly a U-Haul 4x8 trailer (thier smallest box tralier) from Minnesota all the way to Maryland.

Now I read in places that a manual transmission cannot tow as much weight as an automatic. Then I read that manuals are better cuz automatics can start overheating, and that on manuals the worst case is that you replace the clutch.

Could people just give me tips on towing something thats relatively heavy for a car with a manual transmission? Like for example, do I avoid engine braking completely and just slip into neutral and use regular brakes instead to conserve clutch wear? Or would continuously switching from gear to neutral and back into gear be actually worse for the clutch than engine braking?

Would I have to stay away from the 5th gear for ascending mountains? Do i have to stay out of 5th period?

I know thats a lot of questions, but any answers to any of them ... and any other tips anybody can think of for this setup would be greatly appreciated!

Thankyou

Reply to
alxsml
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I wouldn't downshift to engine brake (even when not towing) but you don't have to push the clutch in everytime you let off the gas either.

Using overdrive probably isn't a good idea with a load. I'd also recomend changing the fluid so you have fresh fluid for the trip.

Reply to
Steve T

Thats what I hear, but I thought it meant that I'm not supposed to use it when the car's actually doing a lot of work to pull the trailer .... like ascending a mountain or startings/stopping. But coasting down the highway, would I actually have to stay in 4th? I mean my RPM reaches about 2500 at 50 mph on 4th and I hate going up to 3000. Am i actually supposed to go 50 all the way to maryland? Maybe this wasn't such a good idea :(

Reply to
alxsml via CarKB.com

Why do you hate that? That engine should be pulled up past 4000 regularly. Lugging a smallish engine is really bad for it.

You're call.. Again there would be nothing wrong with running 4000 RPM across the country other than burning a bit more fuel.

Reply to
Steve T

...Do i have to stay out of 5th period?... Just common sense: check that all coolin related is ok, as mentioned good lube. If A/T doesnt slip its as good as M/T. If weather is very hot, drive when sun is down...

Nissan manual suggests no overdrive while towing (A/T), but all depends on circumstances: steady load, no hills, mild weather, cant see any problems with 5/OD.

Reply to
Wiikinki

I wouldn't expect the sport trailer to be any problem, but the bigger trailer depends upon how much load and which way the wind is blowing. With a lower powered 83 Subaru manual wagon I have towed a 1000 lb camper and 4x8 trailer load of firewood more than once (even towed a Mercedes

240D w/tow rope when extreme sub-zero weather disabled it).

The load should be balanced for some tongue weight for stability (typically 10% of loaded trailer weight), but I don't know if I would go much over 100-150 lbs tongue wt. without knowing vehicle towing ratings.

NOTE: The tongue weight at rear can reduce weight on front wheels. When towing a heavy trailer with the Subaru in a driving rain, my front wheels started spinning just driving down the highway, and I had to use 4WD (took out a goose that walked out in front of me).

Just drive like you normally would if your grandma was riding with you (smoothly, but minimal clutch slippage). Accelerate moderately using somewhat higher shift points (don't labor the engine). Allow plenty of time and distance for braking smoothly. Whether to use 5th gear depends whether the pavement is level or slightly decending and wind direction (in your favor or not). I seem to remember my 95 Max SE cruising at well over

3000 rpm for hours at a time (not to mention years of autocrossing to red line). So I wouldn't really worry running 3000-4000 rpm for a period of time in 4th if necessary.

Except when decending grades (so engine braking avoids overheated brakes), you are not really supposed to downshift for engine braking. Downshifting should primarily be limited to when you anticipate needing a lower gear to accelerate (like entering a turn or getting ready to pass). Brake pads are cheaper than clutch or engine rebuild, but engine braking down a long grade is cheaper than driving off the road due to cooked brakes.

Reply to
David Efflandt

You know how when you see trucks on the highway with large loads and they come up to hill or any slight uphill gradient? They start to downshift frequently to try to keep the power up and their momentum going. Your maxima with a trailer is going to emulate that to some extent. Forget about 5th gear going uphill, or if you find yourself in

5th dont let the rpms get below ~2700 to downshift.

And yes, you probbaly will have to go slower than normal traffic for the trip just to be safe. First, your car is less powerfull (same power with

1/3 more weight is efeectively less power) and with more weight, your braking distances will be longer.

CD

Reply to
Codifus

Thanks everyone for such great input! (especially David Efflandt)

This does not mean I'm closing the thread, I would still like anyone out there who has an opinion or a tip or anything it would be greatly appreciated! As you can tell, I have never towed with a car before leave alone a 5 speed. So stuff you guys say here probably will save my butt!

Reply to
alxsml via CarKB.com

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