'96 405 factory alam malfunction - no siren

Bugging problem, the key with remote central locking (Factory Fit Peugeot) works fine, immobiliser works fine, alarm works it will flash the headlamps if 'broken into' but it will not sound the siren. It's a late 405, 96 'N' reg GLX model TD Estate with Air Con. Does not have an immobliser keypad, it's all done automatically when you unlock the car with the key via infared remote built in.

Does anyone know if it's possible to turn the sound off on these, if so how do you re-enable it? I see there is a fitting with a key by the radiator - we do not have the key and Peugeot cannot supply one, I cannot find a wiring diagram to understand what the wires are for (presuming this key under the bonnet mutes the alarm).

Any help appreciated, either here or to *gregATgregandsarah.co.uk* (remove the 'AT' and replace with @ and remove the ** - anti spam measures!)

If anyone needs to know anything about TUD3 and TUD5 1.4 & 1.5 alloy block/iron block diesel engines eg AX, 106, Saxo - please ask me - I will most likely know the answer as I have 'specialised' in building them.

Greg.

Reply to
Greg
Loading thread data ...

It is the under bonnet keyswitch. No key - no siren simple as that. I took the pug switch out and fitted a new one from rswww.com. There are five wires but two are a security loop through to set the alarm off if the cable is cut. Simple changeover switch function will do.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Hi Bob,

Very helpful - thankyou.

Do you recall which wires you joined (loop through) or was it obvious when you dismantled the old switch? I'd love a wiring diagram of it, but If not I guess I can just rip it to pieces and hope to figure it out before I annoy the neighbors too much!

Greg.

Bob M> > Bugging problem, the key with remote central locking (Factory Fit

Reply to
Greg

Hi Greg

Sorry no diagram and the memory is a bit rusty too this would have been about 1996 when I did it. I cut/peeled the sleeving at the back of the switch and the loop is obvious as it goes there and back with no connection to the switch Good Luck

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

Hi Bob/anyone reading this in the future,

Your memory was pretty good - I unbolted the switch from the slam panel of the car to allow me a bit more working room and stripped the insulation leading to it back 6in and also carefully stripped back the rubber weather sealing where the wires go into the switch.

Hey presto, a security loop, a single wire which appears to do nothing and 2 wires connected to the swich. All wires are coloured white. I pulled out the loop and the single wire and laid them aside, now facing a switch with just 2 wires therefore a simple closed/open contact arrangement. I established with multimeter that open circuit = alarm siren on and closed contact (the 2 wires to the switch joined together) = alarm siren off.

So I simply cut one wire off the switch and taped it up, making the alarm siren permanantly on. I then taped all the wires up again so it looked back to factory, or near enough, with good insulation tape. I then fitted the switch back on the slam pannel with a new stainless bolt.

I could have put a switch on, but I figured I never want the alarm off, if I do I can simply lock the car by the key in the door which doesn't arm the alarm (as opposed to using the remote in the key, which locks the doors and arms the alarm).

Tested the alarm and all is now good, including a chav-warning beep when I lock/arm it!

Many thanks for the po> > Hi Bob,

Reply to
Greg

Greg,

Glad to have been able to help. I nearly said I thought the fifth wire went nowhere but I was not that confident of my memory. At the time, 1996, pug wanted over 100 notes for a new switch, key and associated wiring loom. Needless to say I did not cough up the dosh.

Bob

Reply to
Bob Minchin

MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here. All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.