Changing Glow Plugs on a 405 TD - DIYable?

Jan 10, 2007 18 Replies

Hi Folks,



I've not been on the group for a while - my beloved 405 has been behaving! Unfortunately it's now starting to get to the stage where I'm trying to decide whether it's sensible to keep going or not - the bonus is that it means that I'm learning a fair bit more about DIY maintenance...



I've done things with the heater matrix and electronics before by myself (well, with the help of a Haynes manual) but never serious tinkering under the bonnet. I'm reasonably competent mechanically, and probably have most of the tools I might need handy.



I'm having trouble starting the car at the moment - engine sounds as if it is not firing on all cylinders for the first minute or two and there is some white smoke, then all is well. I'm told this is a problem with glowplugs, and I've seen them for sale in my local parts shop very cheaply. Question is, will I be able to fit them myself or am I better off paying the garage an hour or two of labour (and of course the slightly higher parts cost) to sort it out for me?



Any advice would be welcomed. The car is a 1.9 TD, 1994 'Hunter' model with a big intercooler sat on top of the engine.



Many thanks,



Ben


Ben, I too have the selfsame problem and have bought glow plugs on Ebay.

The only real tool that I know I am going to need is a 12mm 1/2" drive long reach socket to get between the pipework and down behind the alternator.

I do not see it being too big of a problem, I have done similar with a Citroen van engine and it went well afterwards.

Go for it, the garage charges are far too high for the majority,

Regards, Peter.

It is a relatively easy job, but fiddly, as it is difficult to get to the one behind the injection pump. It might be easier to move the intercooler out of the way. You will need an 8mm socket to undo the terminal nuts, and a 12mm open ended or ring spanner to undo the heater plug. A long reach socket might also be useful. When buying the plugs, make sure you get the ones for the turbo engine as they are rated for that use, those for the non turbo look the same but will not last. Check the details on

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Brain, Peter, thanks for that.

In fact since the car still does start I suspect that it's only one or perhaps two that have gone - although sod's law suggests that it will be the most fiddly one. I have a multimeter, and thought that I might be able to tell which one had gone with a simple circuit integrity test over each plug. We'll see how I get on.

Thanks again,

Ben

All you need to do is disconnect the wire from all four plugs, then test the resistance of each in turn. The dead ones will show open circuit, the good ones about 4 ohms I think. You might just be lucky and not have to change the difficult one. What usually happens to me is that one of the 8mm nuts falls down the front of the engine somewhere, to dissapear without trace. A bit of grease in the socket helps to prevent this.

Every easy to do.just take your time and dont cross the threads. if poss do it by hand untill it gets tight then use a spaner or a good socket. chris addlestone surrey.

I've done it on both the XUD non-turbo (309) and turbo (Citroen ZX), and I don't do much myself. Definitely get the turbo-rated ones (~50% more IIRC).

Do check them first, and also check the pre-heater timing works OK (head under the bonnet, listen for the click when the glowplugs light goes out) and that you can see 12V at each plug.

Chris

This is contrary to my glow plug experience, which suggests they can fail open/short/partialy-short circuit and their cold resistance is way less than

1 Ohm and therefore difficult to diagnose with an average AVO meter. Try your meter on a new one (having zeroed it) that should give a definitive idea of their cold resistance. You may be lucky and find one O/C but In any case it's usually a better idea to change these things in 4s for obvious reasons. My own experience also suggests that calling the one behind the pump - 'A bit fiddly' is an understatement and well worth paying someone who knows what they're doing.

djimbo.

OK I stand corrected on the resistance. Just checked a new one for a 1.9TD and it measures 0.9 ohm. I also checked one from a 1.5D (106) and that measured 1.6 ohm.

To date, all the failed plugs I have experienced have been open circuit.

It is probably sensible to replace all four, not as if they cost a fortune, providing you don't get them from Mr Peugeot, or ask him to fit them. I have always managed to do the difficult one myself, but is it difficult to get to. The obvious thing to do is to change the other three, and see if it cures the problem.

Yeup - that was pretty much what I planned to do. Waiting for the parts to be delivered, will have a go when they arrive and let you know my results.

Ben

Like i said before easy todo, but take your time and dont cross thread them. do them by hand first then use a spanner to just tighten them up.not too tight..

Just to finish the story on this one...

I had a go at changing the plugs, but in the end decided that I was far better going via a garage. The two that were easy to get to were fine, the two that were a nightmare to uncover needed the work. Call me a wimp, but the MOT was due and the incremental cost on top of the service wasn't too bad.

Thanks for all the help,

Ben

That was my feeling when I had the 405, you either have double jointed finger and can work round blind corners in cramped little spaces or you can't. (I can't) but my hats off to those who can.

jim.

All you need is a strong extendable magnet and a slightly bent 12mm spanner. Oh and a bit of patience!!

In message , djimbo writes

What ? they not that bad to change, i changed mine in less than 3/4 of an hour , if you think that's hard you wanna see some of the s*it we work on ( Trucks)

Like you said easy todo.Trucks you needs 8 arms and 24 fingers.

But you should hear him play the piano ;o)

And wash the floor and do the dusting while eating and cooking lol lol

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