Worth Fixing?

Nope.

I stopped reading there. The answer is no. A 19 year old dime-a-dozen sedan that has a LIST of issues? No No No. Not unless the educational value of doing the work yourself comes into the equation, but even then I say no because all the technology in that car is waaayyyyy outdated. GW

I figured that would be an easy one for you all to answer... lol

I would say it is totally up to you. The car seems to have many problems, but if you like the car enough, and the body is in good shape, then go ahead and keep it. I have owned cars that cost me more in repairs then the car did to buy, but I still repaired them, because I was used to them and liked them.

Well, the body's in great shape, but I don't like the car a whole lot, but I am used to it. The seat is starting to tear a little bit on the driver's side - it's old though, so what do you expect? If the engine is going to see some sort of an overhaul, it's all over with as far as I'm concerned. Same for the tranny if it ever goes, and I'm still on the original tranny to my knowledge.

You are well ahead of where we were when we had our last 6000. The body rusted out so bad we had to scrap the car. I always liked the 6000's, but when the body get's to the point where it's not going to hold together, its time to get rid of it. As for your car, it's totally up to you. One advantage you do have (as opposed to buying another used car) is you know all the problems with yours. If you buy another used car, you may be getting someone else's problems. Still up to you though. :)

Here are three pictures of it taken a little over a year ago. It hasn't changed much... I guess one of them was only three months ago. The spots you see on the trunk in the picture were just where leaves were and the spots were washed off, so don't panic there. lol

It's actually a nice looking car, if you ask me. Is that burgundy interior? I love that interior color. One of our 1987 6000's had the burgundy interior, and both of my old Grand Prix's had the same. Looks like the body is pretty good, so its up to if you want to repair the things wrong with the car. I found myself in the situation you are in a couple of times, but it was usually cheaper to fix the car I had then to buy another one. You did say you don't like the car very much, so perhaps that is a good reason to get rid of it. Most people don't like putting money into cars period, let alone ones they don't like.

Yes, the interior is burgundy. If I did try to sell this car, the good points would be the body, the miles for its age, and the fuel economy, which still is getting around 30mpg or 31mpg on the highway the last time I took it out, which was two months ago. It managed fine. The car always seems to make it fine on long drives provided it can make it out of the driveway. Only has the basic dashboard - speedometer that goes to 85MPH and the fuel gauge, plus the warning lights - SES, brake, oil, temp, and volts. I also know this car's past, as it's been in our family for nearly ten years, so I know it's not really ever been that reliable. When my brother bought it with only 60,000 miles ten years ago, it needed three major repairs done and was sold for $1800. One of the repairs was the fuel pump. I don't remember the other two, but I remembered that my brother always had problems getting the car to start. (See, this car always has had starting problems.) The stalling problem this car has when you press the gas sometimes has always been there in the ten years it's been in our family, and it was annoying to all of us. lol The A/C quit only a year after my brother bought it, when he saw the freon starting to run through the vents, and was told back then the car wasn't worth fixing for the A/C. The car also used to have an overheating problem where you'd sit at a fast food place and wait and the temp light would come on from time to time - it would even do this during the winter. This was odd though because this problem was never addressed and the problem has gone away since I've had the car unless my mom had it fixed and I didn't know it - even when it idles after a long drive on really hot days. When I took the car over three years ago, the oil was leaking from the valve cover gasket, and I got that fixed. A month later, it started leaving puddles of oil in the driveway, so we siliconed it, and that held for a year, now it's been leaking for a while again. (I know, the PCV valve.)

I'll add that the headliner was coming down, so we took that out and put vinyl headliner up. (This was back when I first got the car.) The vinyl is light gray instead of the burgundy, but it kind of matches the gray on the dashboard. Unfortunately, the headliner glue wasn't holding it well enough - it was partially, so we got a few bars that we put across the ceiling to hold the headliner up, and it holds it up well without any sag.

Doesn't say what the condition of the rest of the vehicle is. If it's a cream-puff, it might be worth cleaning the injectors and replacing the ignition high tension components. If there are no compression issues that will likely fix it. About 2 bills if you do it yourself. It IS a low mileage car.(for the year)

Do you think it might be a compression problem when I mentioned the one about the steering wheel being turned and pressing the gas. Twice it has stalled on me just when I simply turned the steering wheel without pressing the gas. The last time it did that was over a month ago, and the car did not want to start back up after it stalled that time either. It also stalled every single time that I put it in reverse and let off the brake.

I would fix the car. sounds to me like a bad EGR, bad starter, probably needs a tune up too.

i think auto zone , ammco will scan your car for free.maybe something you can fix if guided. something you can do yourself is check all the vacume lines for cracks. a bad egr valve will make a car act like yours. if you dont want to try to fix,i guess your better off with a car payment and a different newer car. lucas

as far as dying when you let off the brake ... i had a 600 that did that and run bad and the brake booster was bad. pinch off the hose going to it and see if it runs better ,if so, bad booster,.i also agree with changing the plugs and wires.

I'm not getting any SES warnings by the way.

Pull the plugs and do a compression test. All cyls should be very close. Do the test with the throttle blocked open and theinjectors disconnected. If the compression is at all reasonable, you need to check your plugs and wires. Plugs should have nice square edges onthe center electrode, and gap should be at spec. Check plug colour and report here. If plugs look decent, run engine at idle and spray a bit of water on the plug wires. If it stops, you need new wires (and likely cap too) As mentioned, check ALL the vacuum lines. Try disconnecting the EGR vac line as well - to be sure it is not accidentally being turned on.

I *still* think it's the EGR coming on incorrectly since that's what caused mine to stall/die.

As for the leaking valve cover gaskets - well, just get used to replacing them; it's a well-known flaw in that car.