94 900S rear brakes

Son's car has some grinding going on, turns out the left-rear pads are gone. No big deal, but I see that there's no flex on the brake line, it's steel all the way to the caliper. Am I correct in assuming that we're going to have to disconnect the line and bleed when we're done...or is there a trick?

-John O

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John O
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Note to self: next time: google first, then ask questions.

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1999 Saab 9-5 Rear brake pad replacement procedure: ("Early type", apparently)

  1. Decide if you want to do the left or right side first.

  2. Locate the _wheel_ on that side of the car. These are usually located along the sides, towards the back, and can be recognized by the black rubber _tire_ (tyre) which will be the part of the car touching the ground.

  1. Remove the wheel by first slightly loosening the wheel bolts, jacking up the car, and removing the wheel bolts and wheel fully.

  2. Using a 1/8" punch or equivalent tool, and a hammer or equivalent tool, (I do not suggest using any part of your body as "equivalent", metal is probably indicated although a rock can suffice for a hammer in a pinch), drift out the two pins which go through the two sides of the caliper and the slotted holes in each of the brake pads. The pins push from the out-board side of the car in towards the centerline, which is convenient unless you happen to be 1.5 feet (~0.5 meters) tall.

  1. Remove the flat/bent steel spring which removing the above pins allows you to do. Pay attention to the orientation so you can pretend you'll remember long enough to put it back in (when really, you'll end up looking at the other side to double-check anyway).

  2. Using a wide prybar or equivalent tool, push the pads back into the calipers far enough to withdraw the pads from the caliper. Press the pistons further in once the pads are out (I was able to use my thumbs for this).

  1. Using the supplied (If you bought the Saab OEM pads) moly-kote grease, spread it as directed in the diagram on the back of the pads. It is not advised to put it on the front of the pads unless you want to not be able to stop very well.

  2. Put the new pads back in where the old pads were, only bigger.

  1. Figure out how that darned spring clip thingy goes in & grow a third hand to hold it in place while you put in the first pin.

  2. Drive each pin in from the back (pointy-ish end towards the outside of the car). Get everything aligned by hand, and drive it home with light taps from a hammer. Don't miss the pins - lots of important stuff is right in that neighborhood. (Accruacy counts!)

  1. Put the road wheel back on, loosely tightening the bolts.

  2. Lower the car onto the wheel.

  1. Tighten the wheel bolts.

  2. Repeat steps 1 through 13 on the other side of the car.

Comments on this procedure are welcome; I don't mind if it ends up on someone's website somewhere as long as I get the blame for it.

-Dave Hinz ______________________________________________

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John O

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