Hot Running 900 T16 - blocked radiator?

Hi,

Got a problem with my 1987 T16. I've just driven 500 miles up and down the country over the last couple of days. When I'm in town traffic, the temperature gauge stays dead in the centre and the fan comes in as it should. However, when I get up to speeds around 85-90mph on the motorway, the temperature slowly climbs - it never quite gets to the red, but the car does get hot. If I turn the heater on full heat, the temperature will drop pretty quickly back to normal and stay there, no matter how hard I drive the car. If I turn the heater knob back to "halfway", the temperature will start climbing again. Turn it back up to max again, temp falls to normal.

This behaviour only even happens on the motorway at high speed - around town the car is perfect. No steam/smoke, no loss of power.

So, could this be a blocked radiator - same symptoms as my Capri 2.8 when the rad was silted up on that. Not sure if the C900 suffers from that problem as much though. Or is it the head gasket? Or did I not bleed it correctly when I flushed the cooling system a month or so back?

Car DOES use some coolant - around a litre a month. It doesn't appear to be contaminating the oil, and there's no oil in the coolant. Water pump is a bit squeaky and it sometimes looks as though it might be leaking from beneath. I'll change the pump when I get back from holidays in a month.. Could this be also causing my hot running? Or is that more likely to be a blocked rad?

Help!!

Cheers Mike

Reply to
Mike P
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Could be, but that is quite unlikely.

Could be.

Could be.

Add to that list possible lean mixture or incorrect timing.

That's a lot.

You need to find out where that litre is going. Could be dripping out somewhere, in which case it's not related to the overheating. Or it could be being burnt, which would be causing the overheating.

Blocked rad is possible but unusual.

Reply to
Grunff

I'd find that leak mate, patch that up. Refill and bleed the system again then see how it is. I've replaced some pretty nasty rads in 900's and never had a problem with a silted up one. Doesn't mean you couldn't just that its pretty rare.

Its could be a headgasket fail, first signs are normaly a slight overpressure of the coolant system leading to it spitting water out of the pump. Dangle a sniffer into the header tank and see if it comes up with anything.

Matt

Reply to
**-**

A classic example of a tired radiator, more horsepower = more heat, putting on the heater brings down the temp thus helping out the rad. If you have the copper radiator, look at the fins and you will probably find that they have turned to dust. Ovbiously the water loss may be a seperate issue, but change the rad first. I have done lots of rads to cure motorway overheating abd it worked every time. Make sure the rad is for a t16 as they are cored thicker than the others, HTH, Tom.

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Reply to
Tom

Thanks for all your advice chaps!

I'll get hold of a s/h rad from the local SAAB specialist and fit it at the weekend. Won't cost a lot and then I'll see where we go from there. I was pissed off yesterday, and was going to sell it but I drove it again today and it's just too much fun :-)

Mike

Reply to
Mike P

Hi Mike

Your problem is probably due to the sasklar thermostat linkage. You can spot it as a small, purple knob underneath the right hand side (remember: you are the car, as far as orientation is concerned) radiator shim. You can twist the knob off with a set of Vicegrips, and then substitute a wad of bondo or evern chewing gum (pick your poison). A replacement from the dealer costs about $1235.

Aren't Saabs quirky? They are great when everything works, but most things (things that normally don't go wrong in another make of car) start failing after about 80K miles, and the costs start tearing a hole in your kids' college funds or your retirement plan.

For example, the speedo in my '96 9000 quit one month after the warranty expired. The problem was a broken plastic impeller that cost $5.39. However, the impelller replacement required PULLING THE ENGINE, at a labor cost of over $500.

When you have finally had enough, try this simple cure:

  1. Go to Walmart and buy a 30 lb sledgehammer.
  2. Go to your favorite liquor or grocery store and buy a six-pack of tall boys.
  3. Go home and set up a small table near your Saab; put the chilled tall boys on the table.
  4. Starting from the front of the car, bash repeatedly with the sledge hammer until the car is nothing more than a pile of scarp.
  5. Make sure you pace yourself and pause for another tall boy as you demolish, for all time, the wallet-eating car par excellence.

Hope this helps.

Reply to
bjmpls

This is a bit like my C900. The speedo works perfectly, but the odometer has a problem where if there isn't enough inertia in the gearing inside the gauge, when the tenth of a kilometre dial hits zero it cogs and stops rotating. 8-)

End result being that until the next time the car drives over a bump with enough acceleration being provided by the engine, the odometer stops clocking over.

I'm going to pull the instruments out soon when I get a replacement set and see exactly what's broken but I'm sure it's just one tooth on a small plastic gear, going by my observations of the fault.

Hardly expensive, but it means the car will fail it's next rego inspection which is due in May next year.

Craig.

-- Guru Will Sellit! ** 'sunrk' on Ebay ** | Get Back on Track at the Sun Shack Craig Dewick - aka the one4sun! |

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Reply to
The One4Sun - GWS

It's acxtually a totally different problem - the 9k has an electronic speedo, but your C900 has a mechanical one.

Your problem is caused by a split in a small white nylon gear in the odometer. Whatever you do, don't try to repair it. It will work initially, but not for long. Just replace the gear.

Reply to
Grunff

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