A friend at school has an '87 Saab 900. She's going home for break
tomorrow (~7 hours driving), so tonight I tried to check the air
filter and transmission fluid tonight. I ran into a bit of a hurdle
-- first, how do I get to the air filter!? I know where it is but I
couldn't figure out how to get to it. Most of my work has been on
Fords with just a little on a Pontiac and an Oldsmobile. Very
different layout, to say the least. The air filter is at the front on
the driver's side near the ground, right? Above the cavity I believe
the filter is in is a metal block with the air intake hoses and the
hose leading to the throttle body and additionally some other piece I
don't recognize that has 4 hoses going to the other side of the intake
manifold. I pulled the throttle body hose off and saw the diaphragm
there. With the hose on (I had only pulled the one end off to take a
look), I could not get a screwdriver at the two screws on the two
separate covers to the metal blocks over the filter. I'm also
uncertain that I would have enough freedom of movement to move the
cover out of the way even if I did get either of those screws off.
What is the correct approach to checking (and replacing) the air
filter? The engine is an inline 4, btw.
The other problem is I couldn't find the transmission fluid reservoir
to check that. I'm told that second gear makes bad noises, so I
wanted to check the fluid just to be sure. Where is the trans. fluid
Thanks for any pointers!
If we confess our sins, He is faithful and just and will forgive us our
sins and purify us from all unrighteousness.
On Wed, 19 Nov 2003 07:09:49 -0000, MeatballTurbo wrote:
Thanks. Unfortunately she changed plans and left a half-hour before I
got to campus. Checking it will have to wait two weeks. I believe
the car is an 8 valve because there's no plate on the back saying 16.
Now I know where to look, with a light :-). (I've never actually
looked at the car except after sundown)
The nice thing about windoze is - it does not just crash,
it displays a dialog box and lets you press 'ok' first.
I would like to meet the Saab engineer who designed the air filter assembly
in a dark alley after coming out of the pub one night...
It is a bitch to get the air filter out/replaced. You are on the right
track: take off the plastic bellows that runs from the top of the top of the
air sensor plate to the intake manifold (or turbo if you have one). Then
remove the six (I believe) phillips screws around the outside of the air
filter assembly. VERY CAREFULLY lift up the air sensor / fuel distributor
assembly to get to the air filter. My 2 cents: remove the four plastic
(read OLD BRITTLE EXPENSIVE PLASTIC) fuel lines from the fuel distributor to
the four fuel injectors first as they do not like to be bent; also be
careful not to snap off the 4"-long plastic tube that extends down into the
center of the air filter when you are removing the top (I broke mine off,
doesn't seem to make any difference, I just hate breaking things
unnecessarily). Another tip for you: if when removing the fuel injector
lines you happen to loosen up the fitting that screws into the fuel
distributor instead of just the fuel line -> fitting connection, replace the
crush washer underneath that fitting with a copper crush washer... I have
found that once unsealed, the old metal-and-rubber washer does not properly
seal and can inject some air into your system.
Pretty ridiculous procedure just to change the air filter! The good news is
that the air filter is about the same size you'd see in a dump truck so you
don't have to change it very often.
I see what you mean. The '91 Ford Escort I used to have had just 4
clips holding the cover on the assembly. No tools necessary. If you
have 5 minutes of spare time, that's more than enough to check that
Thanks for all the "learn from another's mistakes" tips! Very
helpful! As I said in my other reply, my friend left for home early
and was gone by the time I stopped by this morning. It's nice to know
I was heading in the right direction and not out of my mind.
Say, are the fuel hoses just discolored or are they full of fuel? If
they are full of fuel, is there a way to drain them before pulling
them off resulting in fuel spilling all over?
That's nice. She got the car this summer. Since checking and
replacing the air filter is supposed to be quick, easy, and cheap, and
we (I, anyways) have no idea how long it has been in there, I wanted
to make sure it was in good condition. If the air filter is that much
overkill, then perhaps its still in good condition and won't be
killing the car prematurely.
Microsoft is to operating systems & security ....
.... what McDonald's is to gourmet cooking
Probably both. The system is designed to be pressurized at all times to
eliminate vapor lock (fuel vaporizing inside the lines which results in poor
hot starting). The Bentley manual recommends starting the engine, then pull
out the fuel pump relay. Car runs out of gas basically, no residual
pressure. I was quite surprised at just how much fuel did leak out
(couldn't be bothered to let off pressure)... do yourself a favor and
unscrew your gas tank cap to vent the pressure too before you start.... it's
a large pressurized air reservoir that can displace a LOT of fuel.
in article gGMub.98343$jy.56346@clgrps13, Dave at email@example.com
wrote on 19/11/2003 16:15:
Thanks a million. It's great owning a Saab - I didn't ask, but I received :)
My JR sports filter arrived today. My last air filter change was on a NA '85
900. None of the screw were rusted and the fuel lines were nice and
flexible. I'm not too sure on this one though ('89 900 T8), so I'll go
1989 900 Turbo S
Yeah those fuel lines of which I speak, Saab wants a small fortune ($70-$100
Canadian dollars EACH depending on which cylinder). You might check into
replacing them with braided steel HDPE lines, according to Grunff the
threading on the fittings is common (in the UK) and a hydraulic shop should
be able to set you up fairly cheaply. Unfortunately for me we here in North
America seem to be stuck in the stone age of measurement and all the
machine/hydraulic shops are tooled up for imperial thread sizing and pitch.
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