Ignition cassette failure? (2001 95 2.3T)

Usually there are some intermittent symptoms a couple of days in advance of complete failure. 40k miles is a bit early for this. One of the coils may burn out and disable the whole cassette. The cassette is not repairable.

Shop around on the internet and you might find a cheaper cassette. It's a simple DIY job to replace the ignition cassette.

FWIW, the cassette on my '99 9.3 went "just like that" at about 60K, although I wasn't driving it at the time. It was running/starting fine, parked the car, went to start the car again and, she's a no good. Cranked like a banshee, farted a couple of times, but wouldn't start. Until the cassette was replaced.

G'luck,

Here ya go:

save yourself over $200 and replace it yourself. Very easy. And even if it does not turn out to be the problem *this* time, it will eventually fail and you will be glad you have one on hand. But I'd bet it is the problem.

-Fred W

Remember guys, it's THAT much important, that you ONLY used the correct NGK sparkplugs, and gapped correctly. Using anything else, can/will reduce the lifespan of your DI (Ignition-cassette). And can also be resposible for lack of power and bad fuel-economy.

Just a word of advice.

Cheers!

Thank you so much for the link! You saved me almost $200 over the dealer. They wanted $460. eEuroparts.com: $289. Next day shipping $34!

Thanks again! John Hooven

This is a *really* bad thing to do with a DI cassette. It's very likely to fail very quickly if it doesn't have *all* the plugs in and grounded. Also, it needs to be the right way up whilst powered up. It might have been knackered before, but it's much more likely to be now, I'm afraid.

Whatever you do, don't "test" the new one. Just fit it.

Cheers,

Colin.

Do please elaborate.

I was under the impression that the cassette was non-servicable.

Graham

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As mentioned, it's also a problem, if the cassette has been turned upside down. So when you replace the old cassette, remember to let it sit for a least half an hour, before you try to fire up the engine - so the (cooling) oil can run back down, inside the DI-cassette.

Cheers!

Yikes! Well, I hope it is the DI cassette. So, I have to ask the obvious question; How does one determine that the cassette is no good without just trying a new one? Can I put a meter/test lamp on the unplugged low-voltage connector or some such thing?

Thanks again, John Hooven

You can pop the spark plugs into the cassette and lay it on top of the engine with the plugs touching the block. Then get someone to turn the engine while watching for sparks. Mind the high Voltage.

Potted in epoxy is what people here have posted, yes. How do you switch out the coils, Frosty? Which engine?

Whatever it is, it's not likely to be a reliable repair that will stand up to heat and vibration.

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The obvious is at the moment it happens, as it will release a smell of hot/burned oil...

Cheers!

Still not a good idea I'm afraid. The plugs won't have a reliable ground. Trying a new one may be the only safe and easy way, or going at it the other way round and trying a replacement car on the suspect cassette.

Cheers,

Colin.

I tend to agree with you. But the AA man did this check as described.

So there is no way to test the input into the cassette? No DTCs are output? No resistance values or the like one could test for?

Thanks for your help, John Hooven

Well, given that any test procedure would take longer than setting it in, tightening the 4 screws, and connecting the cable...what's the point?

The point is not having to shell out $300+ dollars for a new DI cassette that might not even be the problem.

It's nice to be able to *know* what the problem is before spending money on parts.

Cheers,

-John Hooven